Topic: Painting Valve Covers
in Forum: C3 General Discussion
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I have painted my valve covers using Por-15 engine enamel. The paint is incredibly smooth an shiny.
|UPDATED|9/17/2013 2:55:25 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Unfortunately... there are a number of little lint particles in the paint. (I guess that's what they are.) It doesn't look that bad, but I'm a perfectionist.
Does anyone have experience with this paint? Could I hit it with some sand paper... maybe 400 grit, then 800 grit, then 1000 grit then buf the surface to try to return it to the high gloss shine? Or... should I just leave it alone? It's a stinking valve cover! 

|UPDATED|9/17/2013 2:55:25 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

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Ive used Por 15 on many items while doing the 72. Best stuff Ive ever used. Its actually an epoxy base so sanding it might be tough but I think it would be ok to do. Now heres the question, did you wipe the parts down with a rag or paper towels before you painted, if so that would explain the lint. Used a tack rag to wipe down before painting next time. you can buy them at any auto store or even most hardware stores. I keep plenty of them around. I think you wil be very happy with the final results. Let us know how you make out.
Best of Luck
Rodney

I didn't wipe down other than to dry them after using prep and ready. Even then it was with a lint free cloth.
I think the engine enamel is a little different. Not epoxy like the regular stuff. Engine enamel doesn't bond to your skin. Don't ask how I know.

Enamel.... is by it's own nature a soft paint unless it has a hardner added to it. That being said you may not be able to remove the sand marks.....
Did you bake them after paint?
I would try a rear side of one valve cover (short side) first. When wet sanding I'd do it under a running facuet.
And yes let us know how they came out.
ebo

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Most likely just crap floating around in the air. Enamel is slow drying(no matter WHAT it says on the can), so there's plenty of time from fall-out to settle in the paint. Use a scotch-brite pad(wet)to see if you can smooth the finish out, and then respray with a light coat....
Joel Adams
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Yeah, I figure it's crap floating in the air too. The stuff takes forever to dry (72 hours later and it's still not rock hard).
I painted it with a brush and it's silky smooth and shiny as heck. Except for the little spots that look like lint particles. Though there appeared to be a few little bubbles in the paint so maybe that's how things look when the bubbles dry.
Very strange, actually. Anyway, if I sand and recoat it will also be with a brush. I wonder if a higher quality brush would help. The one I used is like those included in the Por-15 kit. It's a natural hair brush but cheap.
If this were on the engine block I wouldn't really care... but on the valve covers? Yuck... 

I'll have to post pics. I'm certain they will look professional as long as the resolution isn't too good.

You can make them dry sooner by putting them in the oven at 250 or so for several hours. That will set them right up. Just be sure the cover are CLEAN first. You don't want burned oil fumes wafting through the house or discoloring the paint.
Good idea. And, about the clean part, you are SO right. I'm certain my wife would really enjoy oil residue on her new GE Profile convection oven. Ouch!

in Forum: C3 General Discussion
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