In the spirit of lively debate....

 I'd like to hear opinions on Slick 50 products. Oil Treatments, Tranny treatments, etc.  Good..Bad...Ugly....

I've heard some differing opinions from non-collectors...good and bad and I'm trying to build a consensus....

 Jim

 

I have used the Slick 50 Oil additive and the grease, both performed very well i would reccommend them.

 

I personaly swear by the Synergyn products. They have an oil additive that is truely amazing. They also have a fuel injector/octane booster product that really works well, as well as a Diesel fuel stableizer that made my Sneezle Mercedes run better than new. As far as trans additives, as a tranny builder, I wouldn't recommend anything that claims to stop a leaky unit.(Can you say 'Snake Oil?" ) There is only one product recommended by any automaker,and that is Lubeguard. It's some good sh**. Anything that claims to swell a seal and stop a leak may work long enough to sell the car, but what tells it when to STOP swelling before the rubber part of the seal pops out? Think about it. ( I can feel the hate mail commin'! )

Some additives work, some don't work well or at all.  I have personally tested quite a lot of them, but have only made a small dent it the entire bunch.

Slick 50.  Test vehicle 1985 Chevrolet S-10 pickup extended cab 2.8L manual trans.  My brother's truck.  ( when it was still around )  This truck was driven in the same manner by the same person the same route everyday.  Very consistant usage.  At 30,000 mi I did the recommended services.  Then the truck was driven a few hundred miles to determine if the base line numbers were changed after the service.  Mileage had been tracked from day one, every tank, every mile, and was recorded.

Mileage did not change after the service.  I did a complete engine analysis and compression test.  This included 4 gas analysis.  Slick 50 was then added and the truck driven just over 1000 miles.

Results:  This vehicle gained 2.5 mpg.  Cranking amperage was reduced from 130 amps required to crank the engine to 87 amps.  A distinct reduction in friction.  Emissions did not change. Compression remained the same.  Over time and mileage standard maintance was performed as recommended. Several years later at 120,000 miles, the compression was the same as it was at 30,000 miles.  The mileage was the same as after the treatment was added.  It still required 87 amps to crank the engine.  Emissions remained the same.

In other words, it worked.  It works by filling the tiny rough spots in the metal surface.  This allows the oil to do a better job of maintaining a good cushion surface.  If the metal does not touch, it does not wear.  The teflon type material that fills the low spots also provides some lubrication qualties for startup, before the oil flows and builds pressure.

At a later date a parts store set up a demo/challange at Barberton Speedway between races.  One car had Slick 50 added about a week before.  The challange cars were a Chrysler Lebaron with a 318, and an Olds Cutlass with a 260.  Both V8s.  Both owned by the parts store employees. The Chrysler got the Slick 50. The cars were pulled into the infield and the oil plugs removed.  Then they hit the track.  After several laps the Olds started to make a LOT of noise, then died.  The Chrysler pushed it off the track and returned to make 10 more laps.  The plug was installed and oil added.  I know 6 months later the Chrysler was still being driven on a daily basis.

Some additives are less impressive.  One product breaks down as soon as gas hit it.  And you always get gas fumes in the crankcase.  Their commercial show the covers off an engine and a hose turned in the engine.  It holds up to water, but breakes down with gas.  In other words, no good.   Several did nothing to start with.  Some helped, but not as much as Slick 50. 

The one I have found similar in performance is Justice Brothers Engine Treatment.  This went into my Nissan Sentra at 138,000 miles.  The engine had major repair but was NOT rebuilt, just repaired.  It got a cracked piston replaced, rings, and valve seals.  It was not intented to be driven when I did this, so I cut a lot of corners.  The valve guides were worn out.  The connecting rod bearings were showing copper.  I just wanted to make the oil smoke stop for use in the class room, but things changed, and I started driving it.  It went to 256,00 miles with worn out valve guides and worn out rod bearings.  Never should have made it.  I did not expect 5,000 miles from this engine.  I got 118,000 miles.  Without a metal treatment it would not have done this.     Another good product.

There is no such thing as mechanic in a can.  If it's broke, chemicals can't fix it.  Many chemicals do a good job of cleaning, and that usually helps the car.  Not always.  Many chemicals do what they say they will do, but cause other problems.  Many perform stop gap service.  They may delay but not prevent a repair.  Radiator stop leak is a good example.  Oil stop leak is another. As Adam's Apple says, it will soften seals to make them work, but they can go too far and cause worse leaks.  Most oil stop leaks also clean the crud from the seals to help make them more free to move and do their job.  It that's what it does it does help, but it's still a bandaid, not long term. IT won't help a damaged seal at all.

Some such as the Slick 50 and JB engine treatment do actually help.

There are many things, chemicals and devices, that are just a simple raw ripoff. They do what they are designed to do, take your money.

I do not make recommendations very easily.  Something has to earn it.  I am a severe automotive skeptic.  Considering my profession and life, I think it makes sense. It must be proved to me, usually by me, and not someone elses lab test.  Real world performance and results is all I go by. 

 

kstyer38384.936412037

Is there a reason to not use slick 50?

I'm going to install a new cam so should I wait until after the breakin or longer mileage? What about on a brand new car?

Thanks Ken. I'd love to take some of your classes if I was local. 

Never use any metal treatment on a fresh engine.  It needs to break in first.  The Slick 50 can acutally prevent break in, resulting in oil use and poor power.

So a new engine? no.  New cam?  No

After 5000 miles, absolutely.

I love to have everyone here in my classes.  But I'm afraid with this group we would get sidetracked on Vettes and no get much of the scheduled topic done.   Hmmm, so where's the problem??

kstyer, isn't that what i said ???, your just using more words !

Only kiddin

That was so well put and i agree Slick 50 is good stuff, and i thoughly enjoyed reading you post, good one 'kstyer'.

Ken, is it ok to use it with sythetic oil??

Hey Gary, it was only a couple of more words  Guess I'm like that

And yes you can use it with any oil.  In some cases you can buy it with a synth base.  The base is the oil it's in, in the Slick 50 bottle.  If you don't find the synth base, no worries, you can still use it.

kstyer38386.3846643519

One question... do engines (say 60 K miles, and maintained regularly with non synthetic) tend to develop oil leaks after switching to synthetic. I have read that someplace... I don't have any leaks right now and don't really want any... I guess i am still "old school"...
How about a survey on those that use Synthetic Oil and or additives?. I've never used them but after reading the post am leaning towards tryng Slik 50.