One additional precaution. If it doesn't start and you need to get away from it for awhile, Disconnect the battery. If it starts, until you are sure of everything, disconnect the battery. A friend's 69 wouldn't start one spring, assumed it was a dead battery. Walked away, ignition off. Vette burned to the ground. Assumed was frayed or mouse chewed wires. Luckily he didn't lose his barn or any of his other cars! Lot of smoke damage, tho. Mike

Whew, I'm taking notes as fast as I can. I paid 5k for it and thought it was a good deal. The seller is a family member and said everything was fine when parked. He mentioned some things that would need attn such as brakes, AC, etc. Other than that, it's should be fine. I hope anyway. Thanks for the responses. Where would I find that cylinder oil, O'reilly's?
Patrick

My 77 Vette seat for 12 years also. I had to remove the gas tank and clean it out. Replaced the pickup sock.
Then spent tons of money on things like: fuel pump, radiator, heater core, exhaust, full brake job (everything), parking brake, new carpets, rebuilt carb, new tires, all new wires, plugs, hoses, etc., converter.
When everything was done, took 2 years, it snows and sleets, so now I wait.....
Good luck.... the fuel problem was the big one.

You should be able to find the Marvel Mystery oil at any parts store. The bigger ones (Autozone Kragen Etc) will definitely have it.

Do all of the above and then have a big beer ready in case none of the above really works!
It's a rare circumstance that anything with an old vette goes exactly as planned the first time! Good luck !!!

yo paid a good price for it. Ian sat for six years . we changed all fluids, spark plugs and wires, added new gas with stabilizer, and carb cleaner. He fired up after a few tries , ran rough for a few weeks, each week running smoother. We had the timing checked and he is running great now. We had to replace the brake lines and battery cables before too long since the brake lines leaked and the car was shorting out due to a frayed battery cable. Take your time with one repair at a time and you will be running fine and enjoying the ride.


|UPDATED|1/26/2004 9:00:59 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Thanks for all the posts, all good stuff. Is there any one repository for directions on how to do some of the more technical things. Someone had mentioned NCM, where do you go on their site to get specific directions on "how to". Thanks
Patrick

I doubt that you will do this, but the engine should Not be turned over by hand or started till you pulled the distrubitor out and turned the oil pump with a drill to pre-lube the engine. If not, you are turning a dry engine. If you have to ask how to do this, it is over your head. Find someone that will help you.

I agree with the last post.
Change the oil and filter,and prelube the engine.
I would never roll over an engine that sat that long without pre oiling every thing the best I could!
You can buy a 1/2" drill driven divice that replaces
the distributor,and spins the oil pump to oil the
engine. Or you can take an old point distributor,
grind the teeth off of the cam gear, cut off the
mechanical advance wings, weld whats left on to the shaft,
and you have a $5 preluber!
Good luck with your project!
Let us know if it runs good!
Steve

I clean gas tanks as part of my business. Gas will turn to varnish in that period of time, so I would pull gas filter and use some carb cleaner besides draining the bad gas. The good thing about Vetts is the large gas fill opening. You can look insied and see what condition it is in. I'll bet there will be some water on the bottom. If its original tank look for rust. Tanks that sit will sometimes rot from the inside out. Also the rust inhibitors in cooling system will fall out of solution and cause the coolant to turn to sand, (silica). I would at least drain and fill. This is not as important as the gas when firing up for the first time but watch temp guage. If it overheats a plugged radiator is the first thing I would check. Good luck. You may have a beauty on your hands. Terry