What is the cure for overseer? What is the best way to pull a engine and auto trans on a 75? Will they both come up through the top, or should they be separated, engine out top, tranny the bottom? Thanks.

Most cars, if not all, are designed to have inherent understeer because that is a safer way for you to lose control. Oversteer is when the rear end wants to break loose first in a corner. To correct an oversteer condition you would need to increase the diameter of the front sway bar or decrease the diameter of the rear sway bar. To get my neutral steering for autocrossing, I put in an 1.125" front bar and a 9/16" rear bar. Both of these bars are OEM and were available back in the day. Not sure if you could still get OEM bars or not. I removed my engine and transmission as a unit using a 2-ton engine hoist from Harbor Freight. I did have to remove the left front wheel in order to get the proper positioning. You need the 2-ton version in order to get the longest reach possibly. You will need a load leveler in order to do this when removing them as a unit. Be sure to mark the relationship of the U-joint for when you put it back together. It's also helpful if you identify all the wiring and hoses to make reassembly easier.

|UPDATED|6/15/2018 7:21:09 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Not much comment on the handling question but +1 on pulling the trans with the engine. It requires you to pull the hood, radiator and core support for enough forward clearance but I think it’s the way to go. If you have any apprehension about removing the core support, then you’ll have to split it in two. The bonus on a AT car is you can remove the trans. cross member if you need to. Good luck.

It is my understanding that the core support is what holds the front end together. Had that issue with one other car. The cross member is easier, and less hassel. I'll be pulling it from the ceiling, and not a three point lift. Gonna be a oily mess either way. My goal is to leave the torque converter attached to the transmission for less mess. Just looking for other opinions on the project. THANKS

You’re right, the core support is the main support for the nose, so if you remove it, make sure no weight is applied to the front end while it’s out. I had mine out for about three weeks during my engine rebuild with no issue. It’s held in with eight bolts, two at the bottom and three down each side. Lots of penetrating oil and some patience goes a long way. The side bolts are fine thread body bolts and somewhat easy to strip on the way back in so I always run a fine thread tap into the welded on nuts beforehand. Removing the core support is also the best way to inspect it to se if you have any rust issues (mostly along the bottom). It’s also the best time to rebuild/replace the radiator is you need to.

The radiator has been replaced, support is in good shape, suspension and body have been refurbished. Engine is next and last. Just looking for the best way to pull everything in drive train. Will probably split them, with fan and water pump extracted.

Need to reconcile the oversteer. Not sure, but think it is in the slave cylinder, even though it has been balanced and has not reaction when first started, or how it handles on the road, save the over steer in sharp turns.

Mark, 

I expect to split the trans and engine. Converter will stay in trans to eliminate the mess. Need to get the car on a lift to check for slop in linkage. Will need another set of hands to do it. Tires are BFGs. Suspension is all new. Very few miles on it. Alignment is good to my knowledge. SBC, so no rear away bar. Goes good straight, but turns seem to make it more aggressive. Wants to do its own thing. Needs correction in a turn.

Keep me in mind for parts. I'll take what you have.

|UPDATED|6/22/2018 4:57:39 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|