I want to buy a C3 in a few months, but I need to learn a lot about them first. I want a '68 or '69, & may consider a '70 or '71. I prefer a big block, but may look at small blocks as well. Not a convertible unless it was a GREAT deal. I will spend up to $20K, though I would also consider a project car if it was CHEAP, & had a good frame & body to start with. Numbers matching would be nice of course, but I wouldn't pay much more for a numbers matching car. Really prefer a manual transmission.

So what do I need to know about these cars? I currently have a '94 Z28, & I have done a fair amount of work on it. I know a lot about EFI, but almost nothing about carbs. What should I look for? I've seen some horrible frame rot pictures on C3s, how can I find that when I have a car on the lift? What else do I need to be looking at when I look at these cars? I'm going to look at them every chance I get during the next few months. What do materials typically run if I wanted to put a new interior in the car?

Thanks for any help!

Steve
I may not be the best one to answer this post . It seems that your list is a good start and much of the rest is basic car buying. If your investing, numbers, options, etc are important.Big blocks LT 1s give good returns. I wish mine (71) was a little older and a 427. Always liked the sound with side pipes. I was supprised by RUST and spent about 6 weeks correcting problems in the rear. These things are getting older and some not a graceful as others.

What do you need to know? Simply put - as much as possible. Read, ask questions, go to shows and check out cars as much as you can. Then read some more, ask some more questions, and then (maybe) you'll be close to being ready to look for "the" car.

I think that research is the most important thing to do. I know I didn't do nearly enough of it before buying "The Toy", but I got pretty lucky (I think) and haven't had too many problems (yet - hear that knock on wood?).

Make a list of what you want in a car. 1970 cars were the peak of the horsepower era before "Uncle" stepped in and started to choke the power down. Drop-top or coupe, auto or manual, numbers matching or not, daily driver or show queen. Then prioritize. I guarantee you'll make some compromises with yourself as you go through the process.

But most of all - ENJOY! Lots of good insights throughout the site on all aspects of the C3s. Good luck!
Jim O.
"The Toy"
Save the Wave...!!!

|UPDATED|12/30/2002 2:24:46 PM|/UPDATED|

another thing you can do is get some partss catalogs like zip and ecklers and spend some time "shopping" for different items. this will give you a good idea what parts are expensive to replace. then you will have an idea what cars to stay away from as repairs would be expensive. example.. a replacement air cleaner for my 72 runs about $350. Also go out looking at c3's in your area even if its not the exact car you want. look it up and down all over to get an idea where to look and how to look.

|UPDATED|1/10/2003 9:09:04 PM|/UPDATED|

Steve,
Good cars are out there. With the advent of internet sales, there are tons of nice Vettes available at reasonable prices. I bought my car through the internet. The car had a frame off done to it less than five years before I bought it. It is a '69 427, 4 speed, 308 posi, convertible, side pipes, factory air, pw, pb, ps, rust free, Crager wheels and a dynamite paint job. It was initally advertised for 24,900 but I got it for 22,000.
Something you might want to consider. If you can not get to see the car in person, get on this forum and see if anyone is close enough to the car to drive over and check it out for you. I would REALLY recommend you get a cheap flight and go see it and drive it. Make arrangements with the owner to have it taken to a nationally accredited ( like Sears or Pep Boys ) business to have it put up on a lift and have a professional mechanic look at it for you ( get under it yourself also ). FOR SURE, drive it. Ask if you can take it to within two or three hundred RPMs of red-line ( promise not to power shift ). If the owner won't allow that, make sure you ask why and if he won't let you do it, then ask him to do it.
Anyway, there are a lot of nice Vettes out there. The C3s should start to increase in value soon ( like the C2s did ). Get a good feeling about the seller by phone and e-mail.
I wish you a lot of luck with your search. I have a '69 and a '93 and trust me, the '69 is MUCH more fun to drive. ( in my opinion ).
One last thought, learn the WAVE

Hi, Steve. One place you definitely want to inspect on any prospective C3 purchase is the windshield frame/door pillar area.

This seems to be a common (and pretty well hidden) rust-prone section of C3's, especially the earlier ones you mentioned.

I thnk the problem has something to do with the crappy seal GM used to install the windshields. Anyway, once the rust starts, it doesn't stop. If left unchecked, it can destroy part or all of the windshield frame ($1000+), and even eat into the pillar that the doors are attached to (big $$$$ to fix).

Be very careful of this. I have seen several Vettes rusted so badly that they wouldn't be worth fixing. This might not be a problem if you shop in a dry climate - I've seen mostly northeastern cars.

Best advice: Before you part with 20K, get friendly with somebody local who really knows these cars. Its definitely worth a case of Bud or an expensive dinner to get your car in front of experienced eyes.

If you want some specific info about how to inspect these areas, feel free to email me.

Hope this helps

Rich


|UPDATED|1/5/2003 11:33:50 PM|/UPDATED|

If your w/shield support and/or pillars are rusted it means you have a leaky w/shield - agreeable with Rich that this is a common problem with C3's I was unaware of when I purchased mine. First rainstorm drive my lap was full of water! Good news is probably that PO probably didn't like his lap wet and neither did I so rain driving was kept to a minimum. Good thing for me that the support and pillars were still in good shape when the w/shield was replaced last summer.

Hint:
If you're checking for a leaky windshield (i.e. - possible rusty supports or pillars) standing outside the vehicle with driver side window down, reach into vehicle and press out at top of w/shield just behind rearview mirror. If windshield moves out (it'll probably move out to meet trim since placing trim pieces flush with the w/shields was not an exact science on the early Corvette production lines) then chances are you have a leak.

Bear in mind the leak may not get through to the driver or passenger, but may only be eating it's way through the metal to get to them. If trim moulding is not flush on w/shield take a flash light and shine light up under trim. If you see any rust or clips chances are you have a bad seal under the trim and it will have to be looked at.

Don't get discouraged. Have a professional take a look. You might be able to tell more by removing some of the interior trim around the w/shield to get a better idea on whether there is a problem or not.

Remember, no matter what you encounter with a Vette before or after you purchase it, I'll guarantee you're not the first!

i'm in the process of coating my windshield header and posts with POR-15. Lucky for me the orgional rarely drove in the rain and stored it indoors. Even so my header has some rusting. Like you stated this is something every C3 owner needs to look at.

Depends on what you're looking for. Isn't that the answer to every question? It depends! LOL. Anyway, in my opinion if you're looking for a driver instead of a NCRS car, then buy a small block (for much less $$$) and then spend the savings on a big block crate engine (if you want the big block). I think you'll get performance and reliability that way and still have some $$$ to do other things to the car.

Of couse the caveat here is "Your milage may vary". Happy hunting and good luck.

Hello Steve,

Of the two years you prefer, the 69 will be cheaper and easier to get parts for and repair. The 68 is practically a one year only car making most/many of the pieces very expensive. The initial additional expense for the 69 is more than worth the price when you go to buy the first restoration part.

Alex