Topic: '81 rear wheel bearings
in Forum: C3 Handling Components
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jimiam
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Memphis, TN - USA
Joined: 2/16/2007
Posts: 134
Vette(s): 1981 Red
1993 Black Rose
A few questions about what I think is a "siezed" inner race on an inboard bearing. The rest of the bearing is history. I've disconnected the trans axel, and removed the spindle flange (yoke).
Does the strut rod need to be disconnected from the spindle housing in order to drive the spindle out?
Secondly,would it not be easier to just remove the entire trailing arm assembly and press the disk/spindle asm. out on the bench? Seems either way this is going to be a job to remember. Any help is appreciated.

Adams' Apple
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
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You're right...this will be a job to remember!
The outer bearing is pressed onto the spindle, and they are usually REALLY tight. The inner bearing, by the flange, is not normally the problem with dis-assembling the set-up. IMO, it is MUCH easier to take the t-arm off, and work on the bearings out in the open. You can damage the spindle support when the outer bearing is stubborn, if you're not careful. They make a "press" tool, that is supposed to be able to press the spindle out of the housing in the car, but most folks I've talked to that used one say it ain't worth crap. The BEST way is to take the t-arm off, then dis-assemble the spindle support from the t-arm, and then press the spindle out of the support with a hydraulic press. My .02
The outer bearing is pressed onto the spindle, and they are usually REALLY tight. The inner bearing, by the flange, is not normally the problem with dis-assembling the set-up. IMO, it is MUCH easier to take the t-arm off, and work on the bearings out in the open. You can damage the spindle support when the outer bearing is stubborn, if you're not careful. They make a "press" tool, that is supposed to be able to press the spindle out of the housing in the car, but most folks I've talked to that used one say it ain't worth crap. The BEST way is to take the t-arm off, then dis-assemble the spindle support from the t-arm, and then press the spindle out of the support with a hydraulic press. My .02

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jimiam
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Memphis, TN - USA
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Vette(s): 1981 Red
1993 Black Rose
Thanx bunches. That was kinda what I thought but wanted some words from the expericed. Everything I've read says the spindle support is bolted but these appear to be rivited.
Guess my next step will be to disconnect the spring on that one side. I presume I'll use a jack to relieve the tension, remove the nut from the "support rod ?" then slowly lower the jack. Sound right to you?
BTW: Really nice '74!

Adams' Apple
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Duncanville, TX - USA
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
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Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Thanx!
The spindle support IS bolted to the t-arm, but you have to remove the brake rotor to get to the nuts. The rotors ARE riveted from the factory, but if yours have ever been off, the rivets have been drilled out. If you see rivets in the rotor on your car, you'll need to drill them out first, or you'll just have to press the spindle out with the support still attached to the t-arm...not really the best solution, IMO.
To remove the spring, place a jack under it at the very end, as close to the bolt as you can get it. You need some sort of safety device to keep the jack from slipping off the spring as you lower it. I use a c-clamp, but vice-grips work also. Just be careful lowering the spring end.
The spindle support IS bolted to the t-arm, but you have to remove the brake rotor to get to the nuts. The rotors ARE riveted from the factory, but if yours have ever been off, the rivets have been drilled out. If you see rivets in the rotor on your car, you'll need to drill them out first, or you'll just have to press the spindle out with the support still attached to the t-arm...not really the best solution, IMO.
To remove the spring, place a jack under it at the very end, as close to the bolt as you can get it. You need some sort of safety device to keep the jack from slipping off the spring as you lower it. I use a c-clamp, but vice-grips work also. Just be careful lowering the spring end.

Joel Adams
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jimiam
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Memphis, TN - USA
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Let's see if I have this right. The rivets go through the hub and rotor into the spindle flange. The lug bolts (studs) are actually attached to the spindle flange. Once the rivet heads are drilled the hub and rotor will come off leaving the lug bolts still attached to the flange.
This hub and rotor appear to be one piece. How do you separate the two, a really big hammer? 

lost in the 60's
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Unbolt your brake caliper, you will have to take off the brake line to remove it, I'm not sure if a 81 has a steel line or a rubber one. My car has a steel line. If it doesn't have rivets holding the rotor on...then pull the rotor off. Should pull off easy if it doesn't have any rivets holding it on. This is a job I have to do pretty soon also.
Good luck
Good luck

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Vette(s): 73 Conv, Blue-Green/White Top - 454, M21 - Dark Saddle Leather, Power Windows, A/C, Tilt/Tele, AM/FM St. (orig. and sounds like it too).#2 -- 2007 Coupe,3 LT package, Z51 option, Victory Red, Ebony Int. Clear Top.
[QUOTE=jimiam] Thanx bunches. That was kinda what I thought but wanted some words from the expericed. Everything I've read says the spindle support is bolted but these appear to be rivited.
Guess my next step will be to disconnect the spring on that one side. I presume I'll use a jack to relieve the tension, remove the nut from the "support rod ?" then slowly lower the jack. Sound right to you?
BTW: Really nice '74![/QUOTE]
I guess you know you can buy the complete trailing arm assembly (usually a exchange) or have yours rebuilt... at least be sure to put stainless emerg brakes, springs etc back on. I don't know if that is NCRS OK tho, if you are into that... just my 2C. There is a lot of info in the archives on this subject (search... trailing arms). A few folks here have done it 

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USN 1966-1970
WestPac 67-68 Tet I&II
Featured in Corvette Enthusiast Aug 2007 "Shark Attack"
Blue Green *** 454,4 Spd, Dark Saddle Leather, A/C, AM-FM St. (orig), PW, Tilt -Tele Wheel"

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jimiam
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Vette(s): 1981 Red
1993 Black Rose
Yep, it's all original stuff back there. Metal lines, rivets, etc. Drilled the rivets this afternoon. Pulled the rotor and emergency brake components then the shocks. I hosed the nuts at the strut rod and spring down good with penetrating oil and will take those off tomorrow. The pivot bolt at the front of the t-arm looks like it's gonna be tuff. I'm sure I can get it out ok, but getting it back in may prove difficult. I'm not sure I can get my hand back there to start the bolt back in. This is a real concern for me right now.


jimiam
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Memphis, TN - USA
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Vette(s): 1981 Red
1993 Black Rose
I like the idea of stainless parts for the emergency brake. I'll have to look into the rulings on that one.
Never know what the future may bring, and I think I'd rather swap an eng. and trans out before tearing into this suspension again.

The best way to get those front pivot bolts out ,is to use a reciprocating saw and cut them out,its a lot easier then trying to take them off with a wrench.ya don't wanna reuse them anyway,there will be shims on both sides of the bushing,write down somewhere how many and what side they were on and replace them the sameway,may as well replace the bushings while ya got the arm out,you dont want to have to take them out again,if you've got the bucks,get the rebuilt units,and save yourself a lot of work,the bearings have to be pre-loaded,and done right,call around your area,or local Vette club,or Chevy dealer to see if anybody knows how to set them up right,

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in Forum: C3 Handling Components
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