I just completed my install of the Borgeson power steering box in my '81.

Was is worth it??? Hell yeah!

I ordered it on ebay for $670. free shipping. This was the cheapest I could find one of these kits.

Since I have access to a lift it made it much easier to install of course. Everything is pretty much straight forward except for a couple "pitfalls" I ran into. The instructions are very vague for semi mechanically inclined I'd say.
Here is a few details on my install.

First thing I did once it was up in the air was disconnect the lines at the pump and let it drain out.

Then disconnected the fluid lines from the steer cylinder and removed the cylinder.

Next was to separate the control valve from the pitman arm, then remove the pitman arm from the steering box.

To make it easier to un-thread the control valve from the drag link while leaving the fluid lines still connected to it, I separated the drivers side outer tie rod end to allow the drag link to drop down enough to spin the valve off. Once the control valve was off I spun the new drag link to pitman arm adapter that take the place of the control valve. 
(Don't tighten the clamp until you have the steering box and pitman arm installed. This way you can "clock" it straight and not cockeyed when you get to this step. Then tighten the pinch clamp down.)

Then I took the pinch bolts off of the rag joint and spray lubed the steering column shaft.

Then I unbolted the steering box from the frame and being my car is a manual transmission the steering box won't drop out from the bottom. So I had to remove the alternator on mine to allow enough room to slide it out.

The rag joint then was removed from the steering shaft. Spray the shaft up real good with lube so when you start to collapse the column it goes in easier. I actually got my steering shaft to slide in and out fairly easy.

They recommend to remove the steering column, but I was able to loosely bolt in the new steering box and slide the steering shaft into the new supplied rag joint. ******Check to see if your new steering box is "centered" first. I checked mine before I connected it together and the box was at full right lock. *******

The new power steering fluid lines are very beefy. So they will be hard to bend/flex around to connect the fittings. Be patient and take your time. You don't want to cross thread a brand new part. They supply inverted flaired brass fittings to eliminate the original o-ring fittings. Be very careful tapping these brass flairs in. They are soft. Use a brass drift to gently tap them in. Start all your fittings by hand. Once you start tightening the fittings down it will finish seating the brass flares. These are much better than the OEM o-ring setup. If anyone wants pics of how I routed the lines let me know. I'll email you pics.

Then I re installed the alternator, filled the power steering pump up. Do not use transmission fluid. Power steering fluid only. With the front wheels off the ground, start the engine and slowly turn from left to right. If you hear the pump "growl" shut it off immediately and refill fluid. Repeat bleeding procedure until there is no more noise and your fluid level is just above full cold.

I went around the block for a preliminary test. I couldn't believe my steering wheel was almost perfectly straight. But it will be sent off for a proper 4 wheel alignment. It is recommended to add 3-4 degrees of chamber for help the steering wheel return to center while driving.

Pitfall #1 : clutch z-bar hit the new Borgeson steering box. I had to remove the clutch return spring, heat the arm and give it a slight bend to ensure it cleared the box. Once cooled I gave it a quick shot of paint and reinstalled the clutch return spring. Worked like a charm. Automatic transmission cars or manual transmission cars with hydraulic clutch conversion shouldn't have this problem.

Pitfall #2 : had to remove alternator to remove steering box. An issue with manual transmission cars. Automatics and hydraulics clutch cars shouldn't have this issue.

Pitfall #3 : there are no illustration on how to rout your new power steering lines. It took me a couple times to figure out a routing that was to my standards.

The car steers so easy now and the ratio is pretty quick. No more vague feeling. No more darty steering. Turning radius is the same as original. I'm very happy with their product.

The only problem I'm having is the steering column has a little squeak in it when I turn right just before hitting the lock. I think it may be a lubrication issue inside the column. No big deal. Well fix that later. lol.

Sarge


|UPDATED|9/30/2012 7:07:36 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Great write-up!  I'll have to dig this up some day in the future when I do this to mine.  Glad to hear that it went fairly smoothly minus a few pitfalls.  I'd love to be able to get rid of the cylinder and control valve in the original system.  

So the steering column slides in and out?  I thought you had to collapse the energy absorbing column and once in, it wouldn't come back out.  I'll be.  I also thought they engineered this enough so as to not rub on an existing clutch part.  Hmm. 

Sounds great Sarge...

Thanks "daveo76"

I believe the stock ratio is around 16:1 = about 4 turns lock to lock.
The Borgeson steering box ratio is 12.7:1= 3 turns lock to lock

Yeah at first it was tight tapping it in. I cleaned up the shaft a bit then sprayed it up with some penetrating oil. Then I tapped it in a bit. Then I took a pair of large vise grips and clamped on to the shaft giving me a point I could lever my pry bar against allowing me to slide the shaft outward. After a few times of doing this the shaft slid in and out very nicely. I actually had the shaft slide up all the way into the column. I about fainted at that point. But I was able to stick a large square file into the end and latch onto it to yank it back out.
***Use a rubber or plastic mallet*** The shaft is very soft and will get dinged up easily. Don't ask me how I know.

I read through some old posts on other forums about the clutch lever hitting the box. It happened on some other cars but not all. I have torches, so I just adjusted the flame to about a pin point and heated across the lever between the return spring hole and were the lever is welded to the bar. I removed the clutch return springs since the heat would have ruined it in seconds. It was a 5 minute fix.

Glad you are happy with the Borgeson box. I am as well. I did not have the luck of moving the steering shaft in as you did. I had to pull the column and smack it pretty good. Once it moved I was able to move it in/out fairly easy.

I checked out your Car Domain Brian. Very good pics and info.

So how long ago did you put the Borgeson box in you vette? Any quirks or issues?

I put it in last fall after I returned from Labor Day at NCM. I have had no issues since the install and would do it again if I ever bought another C3. 

Thanks Brian.

My car is down at the shop for it alignment tomorrow.
I can't wait to give this system a workout this weekend at our Northeast "Fall Fest."