Fill the new master with fluid.  Pump the master until you are getting fluid through the unit.  This is know as bench bleeding, but you can bolt it on the car and not connect the lines if you don't have a good vice.    Connect lines from the outlet back to the fluid tank, and slowly pump the brakes.  When you have the air out of the master, connect the car's brake lines.

If  you get lucky, you may be able to finish bleeding the brakes by cracking the lines loose at the master, one at a time, while you have a helper pump the brakes.   Sometimes you can get all of the air out this way.  If not, you will  need to bleed the brakes at the wheels.

Fill the new master with fluid.  Pump the master until you are getting fluid through the unit.  This is know as bench bleeding, but you can bolt it on the car and not connect the lines if you don't have a good vice.    Connect lines from the outlet back to the fluid tank, and slowly pump the brakes.  When you have the air out of the master, connect the car's brake lines.

If  you get lucky, you may be able to finish bleeding the brakes by cracking the lines loose at the master, one at a time, while you have a helper pump the brakes.   Sometimes you can get all of the air out this way.  If not, you will  need to bleed the brakes at the wheels.

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Hi Kyster,

Please forgive my ignorance.

If I bolt up the master cylinder and open the bleeders one at a time on the original rebuilt master cylinder do I still need to bench bleed the MC?

If I do bench bleed how much pressure is required to get the fluid to pass through the mc?

I the purpose of bench bleeding to keep from introducing even more air in to th ebrake lines?

Thanks,

Bill

Yes, it,s just to keep the excess out if the lines.  If you want to bleed it all the way through, you can do that.  But if you don't bleed the master or you may find that you can't get enough fluid pressure to get the fluid moving enough to bleed the system.