Hi guys,

I've a problem that may be a bent or not quite straight front end.

 

I've set my ride height to the correct figure as per my AIM and have a problem with my front drivers side wheel.  It hits the wheel arch when on full left lock.  Looking at the upper A arm castor adjustment shims when I compare them to the other side, the front adjustment is shimmed out about 3/4 of an inch.  This of course pulls the top of the front wheel forward.  The car has had a new nose fitted but I haven't been able to get it down to the wheel shop to get it checked.  Would I be able to set the castor to the same by pulling the top back to a more central position in the wheel arch and then adusting the bottom A arm for castor?

 

Would there have to be a different castor angle set for driving on the left hand side of the road permanently.  Car is still left hand drive, a lot of guys in Australia convert to right hand drive but I want to keep the car original.

First, what year is your car?  Pre 78 had problems with the wheels hitting when the 60 series tires were used.  In 78 the edge of the fender well was trimmed at the factory to allow clearance.

There is no adjustment at the lower control arm.  This would require some fabrication to accomplish.  The shims on the the top adjust both camber and caster.  Change either one from specs and  you will get tire wear and or handling changes.

Try putting it on an alignment rack, and see where you are now.  If the alignment needs adjusted, it may cure your problem.

Thanks Ken, it's a 71.  I didn't have a close look at the bottom arms and didn't realise there was no adustment.  Wear is good and I can only assume now that it was like this from new.  I am running 60 series tyres so may look at changing them.

Something doesn't sound right to me,has the front end been wrecked, has the nose been installed correctly, is the front end bent, I ran 255-60-15's on the front and the tire would rub when I turned hard to the left, I run the short F-41 550lb springs in the front, the tire didn't rub on the wheel opening but on the wheel side of the inner fender, I put 245-60-15's on and the tire bareley rubs at all now, 3/4 of an inch of shims in the front bolt probley only moves the knockle about maybe a couple degrees or more, I think its rubbing on the inner fender, I could be wrong, you can see it better than me, toe and camber depending on the setting can cause tire wear, caster doesn't,stock settings are toe in 1/4 +- 1/16, camber +3/4o +- 1/2o,castor +2 1/4 +- 1/2o, for a driver VBP's recomend toe in 1/32, cam 0neg, castor 2 3/4 pos hope this helps

I think it's a combination of all.  I'll get it down to the alignment guys and see what's what.  Thanks for all the comments.

There are options.  You could shave the wheel well as done in 78 (ouch)

You could change or shim the front coils and raise the ride height a small amount.  The would require a change in the rear as well to keep the car level. You don't want to raise it very much.  But chances are good the ride height is a bit low now due to aging springs.  Check the ride height.

You could use 245/60/15 tires.  They are slightly smaller size, and will make the speedometer read a bit faster then you are actually going. Acelleration off the line will be a bit better, top end will be a bit less. Both will be minor changes.

When it is on the front end rack make sure they check the "setback".  Setback is the position of the front tires, side to side in the forward or back position.  In other words, is the center of one tire closer to the front or rear of the car then the other tire?  There is nothing you can do about set back if everything is in good conndition, including bushings and bent parts.  But it's good info.  If it's very far off, a tweak on a frame rack may be in order.  If the car has not been wrecked or beat, setback is probably okay.