I just replaced power steering cylinder with brand new one on my 69.  Also put on 2 new lines going from cylinder to  power steering control valve. thats where the leaks are. I hand started the 2 nuts to make sure they went in correctly, then tighten them wit a wrench, not hard as not to crush the end flare. Started car and they leaked, tighten them a little more and the leaked slowed a bit. I fear if i tighten them to much will crush or ruin something. Any thoughts. Thanks. Dan

The lines need to be tight enough to not leak....crank down on them. Depending on the manufacturer of the lines, the ends of the flares will not always be properly made, and will need to be "seated" by tightening them. Use of a line wrench is recommended, if available. 👍

Thanks again Adams, will give it a try. 😎

The lines are from Corvette central.

I would remove the connections, and inspect the seats in the control valve, and the seating surfaces on the flared tubing.  If you find any defects they certainly will need to be cleaned-up to get a proper seal;  and, a flare nut wrench is mandatory to tighten enough without rounding or distorting the flare nuts.  I had leaks on my 1979, and had to rebuild the control valve, and replace the cylinder.  Very happy to have no seeps or drips, and a properly working power steering.

This will no doubt cause some debate.....

I've been using PTFE tape on P/S lines for 20 years.  It stops the need to heave on the line wrench and risk damaging something.  A few winds, tighten up nicely and you should be good.

There will be those who will say it's illogical, but yes, it does work and now, I never fit P/S lines without it.

Teflon tape would be worth a try.  It can't hurt anything.

Thanks, appreciate the help. I cranked on them a little. Seemed to do the job. If it still leaks will try teflon. Time to put away for winter. Snowing 😡

Ball joints and A arm bushings next. 

I need to do that too.  I think for once I will pay someone to do this job.  I don't want to fool with the upper A arms.