Topic: Need new brakes -- Suggestions?? Stock or Upgrade??
in Forum: C3 Handling Components
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Temple City, CA - USA
Joined: 10/3/2010
Posts: 365
Vette(s): 1969 Daytona Yellow. 350 / Automatic.
Yesterday I got to drive my '69 Coupe home in a heavy rain. Among other things, my brakes faded to almost nothing. All the way to the floor, but still stopped the car.
What do you guys think, go with stock or upgrade? I've read many articles last night on cross-drilled and slotted rotors and how they may or may not do anything for me.
I don't race although I may speed on the freeways. Like everybody else in LA, I'll go 50 in a 40 and 80 on the freeway. At a stop sign, I do make a complete stop (that being my last ticket,) so I need smooth brakes.
My car is not an NCRS show car though I may enter it in a VCCA show.
I would really value your opinions about brakes. I need to troubleshoot them first, but then what, repair or upgrade.
Thanks,
Jim
|UPDATED|12/20/2013 4:30:39 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
What do you guys think, go with stock or upgrade? I've read many articles last night on cross-drilled and slotted rotors and how they may or may not do anything for me.
I don't race although I may speed on the freeways. Like everybody else in LA, I'll go 50 in a 40 and 80 on the freeway. At a stop sign, I do make a complete stop (that being my last ticket,) so I need smooth brakes.
My car is not an NCRS show car though I may enter it in a VCCA show.
I would really value your opinions about brakes. I need to troubleshoot them first, but then what, repair or upgrade.
Thanks,
Jim
|UPDATED|12/20/2013 4:30:39 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
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Frederick, MD - USA
Joined: 9/8/2003
Posts: 3398
Vette(s): 1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior
The brakes on your car are perfectly adequate for the job. But...if you want to upgrade feel free to do so. You should first find out why your brakes faded.
If you don't know if the brake hoses have ever been replaced...do so. You might have a caliper seal leaking...either leaking fluid or sucking in air. Either will make you lose braking pressure.
Don't simply throw money at the problem...unless you want to. Diagnose it first and then make an informed decision which way to go.

Temple City, CA - USA
Joined: 10/3/2010
Posts: 365
Vette(s): 1969 Daytona Yellow. 350 / Automatic.
Thanks Gunslinger. And no, I'm not looking to throw money at it, there's enough stuff to spend on without looking for it.
What about Sears or Midas?
What about Sears or Midas?
eldredjames said: Thanks Gunslinger. And no, I'm not looking to throw money at it, there's enough stuff to spend on without looking for it.
What about Sears or Midas?
What about Sears or Midas?
I absolutely, positively would not take a classic Vette to a Sears, Midas, Pep Boys, etc. I suggest you do a little searching in your area and take your car to a shop that knows these cars. If you find that you need to repair or replace a caliper or two, I suggest you buy units that have stainless steel sleeves installed.
Another option is to replace the calipers with modern, lightweight aluminum calipers from Wilwood. They are a direct fit, look good, and weigh a lot less.
John
1973 BB 4-Speed Coupe Project Car
2009 Z06 Mostly Stock
I'm in the process of doing a brake job on my 80... calipers, pads, stainless steel brake lines, new rubber hoses.
From the looks of the parts I'm taking off, it appears I did a brake job just before taking the car off the road 10 plus years ago. The brake pedal was hitting the floor when I re-started this project so I figured it was a good thing to just replace everything.
I didn't go with Wilwood just because of the price, but after this past few weeks I wish I had gone the new OEM route. I ordered rebuilt set from one of the big Vette order houses. Of the first set of 4, only 2 were useable. One had a line inlet threated hole that wasn't round and the other that threads that had seem better days. Luckily I live close enough to make the trip to the showroom/outlet to return and swap out the parts. The customer service people were great, but it did take us going thru 5 sets of brakes calipers to put together a working set. It would have been a painful experience if I had to have done this exchange and testing via mail.
I think in general calipers for these year vehicles are beginning to show their wear from both owner abuse and multiple chemical baths by the rebuilders. If I had to do it again I'd definitely spend the extra $$ and go new. The other bad part about this brake experience was my cores were Delco's and the rebuilds I got were generic "luck of the draw". Hopefully, the rebuilder did a better job on the seals then they did on QC'ing the inlets.
http://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/28601_28700/28676/Photo01111418_sml201552819853r.jpg
1980 Daytona Wide Body - work in progress

Equinunk, PA - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2470
Vette(s): 1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.


Temple City, CA - USA
Joined: 10/3/2010
Posts: 365
Vette(s): 1969 Daytona Yellow. 350 / Automatic.
Oops! I need to update this posting. Stepson and I replaced the calipers, pads, hoses and master cylinder last month. SSBC brand with 0-ring calipers. She stops good now and the pedal stays off the floor. Worst part of this job was bleeding them afterwards. Got a vacuum caliper bleeder from HF but went back to regular bleeding in short order.
Jim
PS The labor and markup at my local vette shop made me uneasy. Plus the 'unknown' items they may find.
|UPDATED|7/9/2014 11:54:51 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Jim
PS The labor and markup at my local vette shop made me uneasy. Plus the 'unknown' items they may find.
|UPDATED|7/9/2014 11:54:51 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Another few hours spent under the Vette working on replacing brake lines. Only have the line that runs from front to back to complete this job.
The 2 main challenges so far have been removing the line retaining bolts that fix the brake lines to various places along the frame and just plain bad "fit" of after market parts.
I don't know what other experiences have been with replacing the brake lines but I'd sure like to know what special tools they use to get to some of these retaining bolts. I'm wrestling with the one bolted to the frame just underneath where the driver sits. The bolt is on the topside of the frame. It looks like there is a access panel that can be removed from the inside, but you have to remove the driver seat to get to the panel. (REALLY!) So in the process of removing the seat I found out the mechanism that moves the seat forward is broke so I can't get to the rear bolts that hold the seat down. Any suggestions before I take the sawzall to it. (no worries... the seats are shot, so they're being replaced anyway.)
Oh, just curious from all those owners that have replaced their brake lines... how many of those retaining bolts did you say "I'm sure it will be fine without it" and leave one or two off?
On the fit topic... I could be wrong but maybe every Vette coming off the the assembly line is different so they just make brake line sets that are close enough... I find this hard to believe... How hard is it to make a fixture from a part that "fits" and then bend subsequent products to match? If I wanted to bend my own lines I would have bought straight tubing. I'm beginning to think if the part quality from the major Vette part suppliers is going to be as suspect as what I've encountered with this brake job, then you're no worse off getting your parts from your local autoparts stores(AutoZone, PepBoys, etc).
http://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/28601_28700/28676/Photo01111418_sml201552819853r.jpg
1980 Daytona Wide Body - work in progress
in Forum: C3 Handling Components
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