I replaced rotors,calipers , ebrake. First the fronts, then rears.After fronts were done al was well. Year later, I just did the rears, and e brake . Some how or when master cylinder when dry . Filled the mc ,pumped the brakes and watched bubbles come up into mc. Proceeded to try gravity, bleed Nothing , vacuum, some fluid came out of all four wheels but the stopped. Seems to me the amount that came out is about what should be in each line . Built a pressure bleeder , 20 psi - nothing Could the proportioning valve/ switch be bad ?? Or the mc or both Help I am fully baffled Many thanks. Big Al

Al, I have always bled the MC first. I use the off the car method. I put the cylinder in the vise and use a rod or Phillips screwdriver to push the piston in. I cover the fluid line areas with my fingers while letting the piston back out to keep air from entering the cylinder. If your lucky the cylinder would come with fittings and hoses to make it easier, but the older cars that doesn'tseem to happen and it sounds as though you are using your old cylinder again. Once its bled and clear I install it back on and hook all lines backup. Make sure you keep your eye on the fluid level. Start bleeding at RR then go to LR. Then RF then LF. Remember each caliper has an inside and outside bleeder. Also I have read where calipers have been installed on incorrect sides and bleeders were not on the highest point which will not allow for air to be bled. As for the proportioning valve if you lost brake pedal and they went to floor it could have shifted. You should be able to tell that by the amount of pressure you have when you pump the brakes and open a bleeder. Hope some of this babbling helps you Rodney

IF the p-valve has flipped, you should still be able to get fluid out of one end or the other....it would not keep it from flowing to BOTH ends.
Unless you have o-ringed pistons in the calipers, using vacuum to bleed them is not really a good idea(imo), tho many folks do it. The trick is to put ONLY a small amount of vacuum on the bleeder at a time. Too much, and you'll only be sucking air into the system past the seals on the pistons. You can also suck air past the threads of the bleeder, so some folks will put a couple of wraps of teflon tape on the bleeders first. If you do have the o-ring type pistons, they are a little more workable with the vacuum method, but you still have to be careful.
NO fluid from either end leads me to suspect a problem with the Master Cylinder. I would suggest first bleeding the master(on or off the car), and see if it will bleed properly. If it does, then go back and bleed the calipers as you would normally...."pump/hold-open-close-release...repeat as needed". I also use a small rubber mallet to tap on the calipers as I am bleeding them. Tapping will dis-lodge air bubbles that may be stuck to the surface of the caliper that might not otherwise come out.
hth

btw..you can get cheapy MC bleeder kits at most parts houses. They usually have plastic multi-threaded adapters, and some hoses, with instructions. I've got several of them around...they used to come with a re-man or new MC, but they don't anymore....



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|UPDATED|7/10/2013 10:19:42 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Thanks guys, I'll try bleeding the MC on the car . Got a few fittings from autozone to do a " one man bleed" Glad to here that the PV even if "bad" would still allow some fluid to pass. Will keep you posted Big Al Keep the wave !!!!!

UPDATE. Bleed the MC. REconnect every thing - still no flow started €67>#%+*^ which never solves anything Took lines of MC and blew air into PV Got flow from both right front and rear Kept disconnecting and trouble shooting. Found a internally collapsed left rear hose and a non functioning front left bleeder valve Replace all rear hoses and double checked all bleeders . NOw have air flow in both directions on all 4 wheels. Will try complete bleeding over weekend < if wife has nothing for me todo> Never overlook the smallest thing Big Al

Reconditioned. Mc installed Front brakes gravity bled with no problems, afterward did pump & hold to make sure. Problem is still no flow to back?? Again rebled MC and blew air through rear lines . Any suggestions on NO FLOW to the rears?? Prop valve?? Thanks, Big Al.

|UPDATED|7/24/2013 6:41:58 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

I had the same problem when I replaced my lines and MC. Finally went out and bought a good vacuum bleeder kit and it solved the no flow problem. I have seen bleeders on calipers blocked with dirt.. Have you removed bleeders and checked them?

Thanks Dan , yes I have double checked all the bleeders and lines. I am going to rebled MC again . I have a poor vacuum unit . So maybe I 'll have to invest in a better one THank, Big Al

Al, originally, you had NO flow to ANY of the calipers, correct? If so, and you now have flow to only the front calipers, then I would have to say the P-valve has flipped.
With the MC now bled, you should be able to pop the P valve back to center by jamming the brake pedal down fast and hard a couple of times, without the engine running. That usually works, but not always. If you cannot get it to flip back to center, you may need to replace it, but I would certainly try to get it to flip back several times before condemning it.

|UPDATED|7/24/2013 9:33:54 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Joel, jamming the brake pedal hard With or without MC cover on???. Yes I have great flow to fronts , but no flow to rears. If I blow air into rear brake line ( disconnected from MC) I get air flow to both rear calipers and thru bleeders. Thanks Al