Can you turn the adjusting bolt? Work it back and forth?

Have you considered removing the center bracket that holds the ends and adjusters?

Was able to get the camber adjustment nut and bolt out. The shock mount one is the one that won't come out. Tried PB blaster , torch,  won't budge.  Going to try CRC freezing spray and air chisel. Appreciate the advice. 

Greetings, The shock/strut rod mounting point is knurled on the inside. It has a flat spot that fits Only in one spot in bearing hub. Yes, they are a bear to remove. BUT, there is a tool that is available to thread on the stub to allow a persuader to assist in removal. Look in most of the vendor catalogs and find the spindle knockout tool. I have one, and know it works. 

You might try threading the castlated nut on backwards flush with the end to protect the threads and then hit it with a hammer.

I've also heard of folks using a threaded iron pipe end cap to protect the threads from the hammer blows.

Thanks for the advice.  Tried castle nut on backwards,  no dice. Was at home depot looking for cap to put over, could not find one. Will try and look for the item you mentioned to out on threads to put over it. Next move, sawzall and a new strut rod shaft. Happy new year 

Just finished shocks and struts, too car for a drive to check it out. Going to need a rear wheel alignment. Does anyone have an idea of the cost of this. Thanks.

Word of advice on the rear alignment....you MUST find a shop that is familiar with the rear suspension on these cars to do the alignment. The alignment is a real pita to do to begin with, and not many shops are equipped to do them, nor do they have the proper shims or personnel. Even the dealerships are crap when it comes to doing these. It is time consuming, and somewhat frustrating to set the rear toe, so most places wind up just setting the camber and letting it go. Check around, and try to find a place, or person, that can do it properly....your tires, and wallet will thank you in the end. Just guessing, I'd say it will run at least $200 or more, unless you provide a good assortment of shims yourself. If you do, make sure to (secretly) count them before and after, to see that they used some, and take a look at the front of the trailing arms to verify new shims.

Thanks , .much appreciate the advice. Theres a few places around here I can call to make sure they do this type of alignment.  One of the strut rods I replaced besides the bushings being shot was bent. That was hell of a time getting that one in. I didn't put in adjustable ones, tried keeping as original as I can. 

Are your trailing arm bushings in good condition?    Replacing them is a big job though.  Also as far as torquing things on rear suspension:  The transverse leaf spring 'mounting bracket' has four bolts going into the differential rear cover.  Those need to be torqued with the car on the ground, or you risk breaking a bolt.   

I am currently doing an R&R on my 4-spd 79's entire rear suspension/drive train.  100,000 miles, and needed lots of TLC.😏