Topic: Re: Rotor resurface or replace
in Forum: C3 Handling Components
Already a Member?
Click Here to Login
Not yet a Member?
Click Here to Register for Free!
Former Member
Send PM
Cramerton, NC - USA
Joined: 8/22/2006
Posts: 1094
Vette(s): black 1982 coupe slate gray interior, 350 crossfire, 1985 fuel pump, Steeroids R&P conversion
If you are at .003 - .004 runout Id say leave it alone. Glad to see you got it done

SPONSOR AD:: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)
Have you torqued the wheel on yet? If not do that on and off a couple of times to make sure everything is crushed into place..take one more measurement and see where you are..be carefull that you are not measuring any bearing play too..you're getting down to the really close stuff so anything can be a factor in a change in runnout..make sure all the lug nuts are torqued the same when you check the run out...like I said earlier..I like them as close to 0.000 as possible..just know any runnout you have now will get worse once you heat them up..I guess I'm assuming you are going to drive this car hard once its all done..the number you have is teter toter hand...if you have time get it to the lowest number..have fun!!

My first parade at Carlisle 2010

Lemon Grove, CA - USA
Joined: 10/17/2007
Posts: 2041
Vette(s): 1982 C3 Collectors Edition 44000 miles, sat in the sun most of its life, My wife purchased it for me for Father's Day in 2007 from her girlfriend that had it for 19 years. It is on the road again. I'm retired but it is now my daily driver.
Just for info I saw a test on the stopping power of turned rotors over new ones. I thought I saved it but apparently not. Anyway it demonstrated that the grooves from turned rotors (all most all turned rotors do some more course than others) can significantly reduce stopping power. I do not remember exactly what it was but it was over 30%. I'm thinking it was closer to 50% in some cases. I think that would be way more than what a little run out would cause.
If anyone knows about that video it could be a good link to let everyone look at. Basically if you have your rotors turned make sure it is a real fine slow turning. The less grooving the better. Then sand off the tops of the grooves. If you do not what happens is the grooves move the disc (like a record needle on a record) when they meet the maximum they jump and restart the process over. Turning the jump period you have not breaking power.
If anyone knows about that video it could be a good link to let everyone look at. Basically if you have your rotors turned make sure it is a real fine slow turning. The less grooving the better. Then sand off the tops of the grooves. If you do not what happens is the grooves move the disc (like a record needle on a record) when they meet the maximum they jump and restart the process over. Turning the jump period you have not breaking power.
I remember that one!! Don't remember where it was..yeah quality rotor machining is define a big problem..its only going to get worse..shops are cutting time on everything which makes guys work faster and care less about quality..don't machine them unless you have to..the run out is important for caliper seal issues but it may be just a trade off.

My first parade at Carlisle 2010

Lemon Grove, CA - USA
Joined: 10/17/2007
Posts: 2041
Vette(s): 1982 C3 Collectors Edition 44000 miles, sat in the sun most of its life, My wife purchased it for me for Father's Day in 2007 from her girlfriend that had it for 19 years. It is on the road again. I'm retired but it is now my daily driver.
Yes I really wish I could find that video it was an eye openner. The more I think about it the reduction in breaking power do to what is normal rotor machining process was over 50%.
I know after I say it I just desided that I would purchase new rotors. Doing what you needed to do to give you quality machining would be as expensive as rotors. That is if you could get someone who new what you were talking about. I did a YouTube search and could not comeup with anything do you remember how long ago that was?

Moderator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20214
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Most, if not all, NEW rotors are mill finished, not turned, so you start with a perfectly flat, parallel surface on both sides.
Using a lathe, whether stand alone, or on-car, will put small grooves in the surface, very similar to a record album. The slower the final cut is on the rotor, the finer the grooves are...if the final cut is fast, it leaves larger grooves, and makes the pads want to jump around a lot. Yes, the pads will want to follow the grooves when the brakes are applied...no doubt aboot that. That's why we always use a sanding disc to knock the grooves down while the rotor is still installed(& turning) on the lathe. This gives us a more uniform surface, so the pads won't have as much of a groove to try to follow.
I don't guess I've seen the video...might be interesting. I think the variables would need to be called out tho...how were the rotors turned, at what speed, etc. Besides, testing braking distances on freshly turned rotors, with new pads, is kinda misleading, anyway. Pads and rotors need to be burnished, or bedded in, before making any hard stops....that's just common knowledge.
Do ya'll have any idea who did the comparison video?
Using a lathe, whether stand alone, or on-car, will put small grooves in the surface, very similar to a record album. The slower the final cut is on the rotor, the finer the grooves are...if the final cut is fast, it leaves larger grooves, and makes the pads want to jump around a lot. Yes, the pads will want to follow the grooves when the brakes are applied...no doubt aboot that. That's why we always use a sanding disc to knock the grooves down while the rotor is still installed(& turning) on the lathe. This gives us a more uniform surface, so the pads won't have as much of a groove to try to follow.
I don't guess I've seen the video...might be interesting. I think the variables would need to be called out tho...how were the rotors turned, at what speed, etc. Besides, testing braking distances on freshly turned rotors, with new pads, is kinda misleading, anyway. Pads and rotors need to be burnished, or bedded in, before making any hard stops....that's just common knowledge.
Do ya'll have any idea who did the comparison video?
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RHjLxR2IE-s&feature=related Pro-Cut Lathe Operation Time Lapse - YouTube
corvette440hp
Yeah that's about it..its hard to see but it actually moves back and forth to double cut the rotor so it does a fast cut and a slow cut at one time but only removing the same amount of rotor material as doing a single cut..it does leave a clean finish as long as the bits are good..the people that made the comparison video made rotors and pads..can't remember the company name but that's where it came from..it was fairly old as it was talking about ABS as something new.

My first parade at Carlisle 2010
This is a great place for lots of informatiom.........more than you can ever hope for:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers
corvette440hp
in Forum: C3 Handling Components
SPONSOR AD: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)