(get your mind out of the gutter) I took my 75 coupe to get it aligned today, and they said that there was too much play in the rear. They said the tires move back and forth too much. Anyone know if just new bushings will fix this (I see complete kits for less than $200), or is there something else that could cause too much play.
They were supposed to get back with specifics, but I don't hold out too much hope -- I'm sure they are more interested in making $$ than helping me find the right parts. . .
They also said that they are having a hard time getting the bolts loose at the front to adjust the shims. It probably has been many years since this has been aligned.
Did they specify too much play in the wheel bearings, or the stub shaft in the diff itself? Two different problems, two totally different solutions, two different repair prices...or two major headaches!
Play in the bearings on the wheel hub involves removing the trailing arms, disassembling the hub bearings, and replacing the bearings, which takes some skill, and dedicated tools to perform. A lot of folks elect to just buy rebuilt trailing arms instead of having the originals done.
Play in the stub axles where they go into the diff indicates the stub axles are worn on the end that rides on the center pin in the diff, which requires removing the diff, taking the axles/yokes out, and installing new axles/yokes. There are aftermarket stub axles with tool steel hardened inserts in them that will forever eliminate this type of wear, if it turns out you need to replace the stub axles.
Joel Adams
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Maybe they meant worn strut rods and/or trailing arm bushings.
Good questions. I'll follow-up with them when I pick it up, probably Tuesday, knowing what questions to ask now.
They also said that the left tie-rod end would not adjust when they turned the sleeve, which does not make much sense to me. If it were striped I would think that it would tend to pull apart. This was replaced just a year ago. . .
Sounds to me like they don't want to be bothered with the repair. The set up can be trying, but can be fixed. Do some home work, ask questions here, and forget the garage. You can do it! Like Joel said, get the set of trailing arms already done. The rest of the job will be no more difficult than the other "Fixes" you have done.
I took my 74 in for an alignment several years ago and the mechanic showed my that when he pried up on the tire on the bottom there was play in the yokes on each side of the3 differential. Simple fix for me was a swap for a rebuilt diff at Bair's and solved that problem. Then got the alignment and it's been good since. You should have told them to show you where the movement was.
DanT
I took my 74 in for an alignment several years ago and the mechanic showed my that when he pried up on the tire on the bottom there was play in the yokes on each side of the3 differential. Simple fix for me was a swap for a rebuilt diff at Bair's and solved that problem. Then got the alignment and it's been good since. You should have told them to show you where the movement was.
Well, I got the car back. I asked the mechanic where the rear-end play was, and he said to have my mechanic look into it. . .
The thing that was baffling to me was when they said that when they turned the sleeve to adjust the toe, it did not move the adjustment. When I was talking to the mechanic, I asked for specifics, and he said that the sleeve just went back and forth on the tie-rod and tie-rod end! They replaced both the inner and outer tie-rod end on the driver's side along with the adjusting sleeve. The only way this could have occurred was if both tie-rod and tie-rod end had the same thread (both left or both right)! How is it possible that a tie-rod sleeve had the same thread on both ends? I wouldn't think any would have been manufactured this way. At any rate, it is fixed now.
When I started to leave, the door would not stay shut -- something broke in the door latch! It was fun driving home on twisty back roads holding the door shut! The fun never ends. . .