Sounds like the trailing arm might have a bad bushing or maybe even a shim has worked loose. Check your pivot point at the frame, the bushing will be hard to see due to the shims, but if your getting that much movement, I'd start there.

By the way, you do have brake shoes in the rear, parking break, they tend to get overlooked quite a bit.

Hey, I think your right on.  The inside of the arm at the pivot, frame side, looked a bit sloppy.  I could move things around with my finger.  I am hoping to take up slack with shims and not taking the trailing arm off.  What are the chances that the parking brake is another issue as far as the noise ?  My other vette is making the same noise.  It comes with either applying brake or letting off.  It seems to have no affect on the operation of anything.

                Thanks for the advice,  I need the confidence to takle the job.  I don't think I need a shop yet.

                   talk to you later,

                        Russell

If you're getting a noise when you apply the brakes, I doubt it's the parking break.

As far as the trailing arm, try shimming it first, but if the shims got loose (they should be pinned or safety wired in place) It may have damaged the bushing. It's not really difficult to remove the arm, time consuming, yes. Also keep in mind that the shim align the rear wheels, it may take a littl trial and error to get them set back in correctly.

Mako,

All I can say is be prepared..........In an effort to replace one of my trailing arms & 1 bent strut rod last year, I ended up replacing everything.

As you take things apart on these older cars, don't be surprised if you find more things wrong, or your dissasembly causes more problems.  I ended up damaging the lower shock mounts.  Also, there is the thought process of "since I'm here anyway" which will usually lead to spring & shock changes and frankly, it's a good time to do such projects.

I'm not trying to discourage you, you will definitely be happier after the work is done.  The good part is that you will have all winter to complete your project and you can use this time to make any upgrades that you have in mind.

If you end up pulling the t-arms, send them out to one of our sponsors to be rebuilt, it's definitelty worth the money & they'll be as good as new.

Once the new parts are in & treated to a good alignment, all the effort will be worth it.

Good luck,

Anthony

Hey thanks for all the feedback.  I will take it all apart and soon.  I am not one to waite and worry, it has to be done.  Some things just take time to even start, this is one of them.  Once the car is up on jack stands and disassembled I will see all and hopefully have to replace half.

              Thanks Again,

                      Russell ( mako )

One other problem no one mentioned, for good reason, is the common stub axle problem our differentials have. The stub axles in the diffs can and do wear against the pin that holds the spyders gears. This is a problem. that at some time or other, hits at lot of Vettes. The way to check it is to see how far the stub axles move in and out of the housing. I found mine to move an excessive amount. Upon disassembley, I found the stub axles worn down to the snap ring, which makes snappin noises on starting from a stop.

Dave

Hello Dave,

    While the car was on a lift,  I jacked up the frame at the rear. I gripped one rear wheel with both hands and could push to see the spindle move in and out of dif.  At the same time I noticed a leak at the pinion seal at that entry point.  How do you know the amount of acceptable movement (play ) ?  Remember the end of the spring had wheel weight lead stuck to it.  It was actually gauged from inside of right rear wheel.  I can drive the car sometimes without a problem, at that time there is enough space between wheel and end of spring.

                        Thanks Dave, you really have me thinking.

                                                  Russell

If you can see the stub shafts moving, they are too sloppy.  Only a few thousands of an inch is allowed.  This also controls the position of the rear wheels.  It stays upright based on the arms, and the drive shafts.

You will need to do the stub shafts and clips sooner or later.  Probably sooner.  You will want to replace the seal at the same time.

Don't feel lonely, this is common.  I will need to replace them in my car.  But I have some other things to finish first.  No, it's not getting much driving right now.  Too much to do.