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Topic: Rear wheel noise

in Forum: C3 Handling Components


Rear wheel noise

Posted: 12/12/07 3:45pm Message 11 of 33
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Tacoma, WA - USA
Joined: 10/30/2007
Posts: 85
Vette(s): 1979 L48 Resto-Mod. ZZ383 w/ TKO-500 manual transmission. Centerforce clutch. Tail light conversion. A/C. BeCool radiator. Red exterior with custom black and white leather interior by Mid America Motorworks.
Here is what I'm working with....






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Rear wheel noise

Posted: 12/12/07 6:06pm Message 12 of 33
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Tacoma, WA - USA
Joined: 10/30/2007
Posts: 85
Vette(s): 1979 L48 Resto-Mod. ZZ383 w/ TKO-500 manual transmission. Centerforce clutch. Tail light conversion. A/C. BeCool radiator. Red exterior with custom black and white leather interior by Mid America Motorworks.
Whats a good drill bit size to use while drilling out those rivets?
Sorry for all the questions...but ya know what they say "to be old and wise you must first be young and stupid."  

I'm in the "young and stupid" phase.  Wink





Rear wheel noise

Posted: 12/12/07 6:08pm Message 13 of 33
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Lake Oswego, OR - USA
Joined: 10/17/2003
Posts: 559
Vette(s): 1972 Steel Cities Gray T Top. Original Owner, Original Paint and Interior. The running gear has been rebuilt. only 250,000 miles on the clock..
You can not remove the caliper without disconnecting the line the brake line. To drill out the revets: First remove the caliper and plug the brake line so fluid doesn't flood everything. Then put the lug nuts on the to hold the rotor in place. Next use a center punch to mark the center of the revet, then use a 1/8 drill, drill in about 3/8" deep, then step up to a 3/8" drill to remove the revet cap. The revet looks like a "T". You need to drill off the top of the "T". Good Luck. 


 
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Rear wheel noise

Posted: 12/12/07 6:18pm Message 14 of 33
Former Member
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Tacoma, WA - USA
Joined: 10/30/2007
Posts: 85
Vette(s): 1979 L48 Resto-Mod. ZZ383 w/ TKO-500 manual transmission. Centerforce clutch. Tail light conversion. A/C. BeCool radiator. Red exterior with custom black and white leather interior by Mid America Motorworks.
WETVET...thanks for the response.  I'll take the advise on the drilling. Doesn't look like too hard of a job...but any job involving drilling anything makes me a little weary.   I got the caliper off...capped off the brake line with one of the many bolts from my "spare parts" collection Rolling%20On%20The%20Floor%20Laughing  I'll start the drilling when I find the time this weekend.  Hopefully all goes well.




Rear wheel noise

Posted: 12/12/07 9:05pm Message 15 of 33
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Fallon, NV - USA
Joined: 7/25/2007
Posts: 43
Vette(s): 1978 Coupe, Red w/black leather interior, L48, Auto, A/C, Power Windows, Cruise, Tilt/Tele.
Shane,
 
I had a problem a while back that I swore was an E brake problem for some of the same reasons you state but turned out not to be. I offer this link http://www.c3vr.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=70528 as something to check out since some of what you write reminds me of the problem I experienced. This may be way out in left field from what you have going on but thought I'd offer it up since you haven't pinned down the cause yet and some of what you say reminds me of my toys problem.
 
Worst case, you read it and delete it. Best case, you have the same thing happening that I had and can easily fix it.
 
Just thought I'd throw it out there for consideration. Good luck Shane.
 
Ernie



Rear wheel noise

Posted: 12/13/07 4:29am Message 16 of 33
Former Member
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Tacoma, WA - USA
Joined: 10/30/2007
Posts: 85
Vette(s): 1979 L48 Resto-Mod. ZZ383 w/ TKO-500 manual transmission. Centerforce clutch. Tail light conversion. A/C. BeCool radiator. Red exterior with custom black and white leather interior by Mid America Motorworks.
Ernie: Thanks for the info.  Since the car is up on jack-stands I will go ahead and change the diff. fluid and add only 1 bottle of additive. Can't hurt right?
Im swamped with work and school papers, but hopefully I will get to it this weekend. Big%20smile



Rear wheel noise

Posted: 12/13/07 5:11am Message 17 of 33
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Mint Hill, NC - USA
Joined: 10/25/2007
Posts: 123
Vette(s): 1982 White Corvette, dark blue leather interior, 70,000 miles

Rear wheel noise

Posted: 12/13/07 7:37am Message 18 of 33
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Fox Island, WA - USA
Joined: 6/20/2005
Posts: 4068
Vette(s): 1978 Indy Pace Car 4851 of 6502, Auto, L-48
Shane, I think Ernie might be right, that sounds alittle like the problems both he and I had and can be an easy fix by replacing the fluid (and limited slip additive) in your rear end.  What you describe sounds a lot like the symptoms I had, especially being able to feel the grinding and almost a popping under your seat.  Give it a try, can't hurt Thumbs%20Up


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Rear wheel noise

Posted: 12/13/07 5:59pm Message 19 of 33
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Yelm, WA - USA
Joined: 7/12/2007
Posts: 356
Vette(s): 1979 L82 4 speed Scat 383 crank 190 cc Procomp Aluminum Heads 202 160 stainless valves GM Powder metal rods Speedpro H860CP Hypereutectic pistons 280 cam hydralic HEI Pro comp 1.6 roller rockers Mighty Demon 750 Sanderson CC1AP Hedders.
[QUOTE=shanes79]Ernie: Thanks for the info.  Since the car is up on jack-stands I will go ahead and change the diff. fluid and add only 1 bottle of additive. Can't hurt right?
Im swamped with work and school papers, but hopefully I will get to it this weekend. Big%20smile
[/QUOTE]
 
My vette shop recomended I use two of the little GM bottles in mine. Maybe they just wanted to move their inventory though Wink I can tell you this sounds just like mine before I stopped driving it andI tore it all down. It would make a horrible grinding-scraping sound when making slow tight right hand turns but only after it had warmed up. It was a real oh si*t what was that noise. I really hope the additive fixes yours cause if it's the same sound mine had I know it's pretty horroble!



Rear wheel noise

Posted: 12/15/07 7:03pm Message 20 of 33
Former Member
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Tacoma, WA - USA
Joined: 10/30/2007
Posts: 85
Vette(s): 1979 L48 Resto-Mod. ZZ383 w/ TKO-500 manual transmission. Centerforce clutch. Tail light conversion. A/C. BeCool radiator. Red exterior with custom black and white leather interior by Mid America Motorworks.
So here is where I'm at.  I managed to remove the caliper without disconnecting the brake line.  Its suspended by a handy-dandy wire coat hanger and is out of the way.  I've drilled out the rivets per instructions from WETVET.  darned rotor still wont come off!!  Any tricks to getting this baby off?   Here's what I've got so far:





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