So I'm thinking of pulling my A arms and having the bushings and ball joints replaced. 

How hard is it to get the upper A arms out of the car?  I have an LT-1 with air cond. with the A6 compressor.

I don't mind taking out the alternator and moving the a/c compressor to the side.

Is that enough?

My 72' required the radiator shroud to be removed also. 

Which means move the radiator.  Ugh.

I have managed to eek the control arms out by removing the front bolts/washers that secure the bushings. The bolts are a tight fit, up against the shroud, but they will come out....most of the time. Worth a shot, anyway. Back in the day, we would knock the two studs out of the frame to clear the control arm shaft, and make removal much easier. Also worth a look-see. 

I didn't realize those were studs, I thought they were bolts.  Dang. Maybe I'll just do the lowers and tie rod ends...

I also removed the studs to reinstall my uppers. It was a LOT easier. I also did a complete alignment upon competition. 

Well...they are "bolts", in the same sense that they are like the wheel studs on the wheel hubs. They have a serrated section in the non-threaded end of the stud, just like wheel studs. The serrations keep the studs from spinning when you install/remove the nuts for the control arm shaft(s). Sometimes, they knock out fairly easy....sometimes they don't wanna play.

So you can't get a wrench/socket on the bolt "head" and that's why it is a stud?  Or is it mostly for when an alignment is done and the "bolt" needs to be stationary.

Guys:

I read this feed as I'll be doing this on my '68 big block but I don't have AC or PS. Same procedure I'm assuming?

The entire suspension will be coming off for rebuild. Going to be a hell of a project as rubber, springs, and quite a bit is original. I'm sure I'll have questions as I go along with this.

Did some suspension upgrades to my C6 Z, but this is my first rodeo for the C3 (I do have a local guy that did his '81 a few years ago so I have some help if stuck too). 

It's mainly just to make it harder for us to work on them...🤬

🤣🤣

The serrations are to keep it from spinning around when servicing the arms, or doing an alignment. You cannot get to the head of the stud(with a socket or wrench) with the arm in position, unless the spindle is popped off the control arm/ball joint.

With the arm/spindle separated, you can raise the arm up and get to the head of the stud/bolt, but....you cannot turn it because of the serrations. Also, a note on re-installing the arms with the studs off. You'll want to insert the control arm into position before re-installing the bolts/studs. Hold the ball joint end of the arm up, and insert the bolts into the frame. Wit the arm held up, you'll need a 14-18 inch or so long drift and a hammer to knock the bolts back into the frame, taking care to fit the serrated part of the bolt into the serrations on the frame hole...as best you can.