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Topic: Removing upper A arms

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Removing upper A arms (1/11)
 11/3/22 5:37pm
F4Gary
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Grapevine, TX - USA

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1972 LT-1 convertible with factory air.


Joined: 8/26/2006
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So I'm thinking of pulling my A arms and having the bushings and ball joints replaced. 

How hard is it to get the upper A arms out of the car?  I have an LT-1 with air cond. with the A6 compressor.

I don't mind taking out the alternator and moving the a/c compressor to the side.

Is that enough?



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Re: Removing upper A arms (2/11)
 11/3/22 6:10pm
manchestersharkLifetime Member
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Equinunk, PA - USA

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1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.


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My 72' required the radiator shroud to be removed also. 



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Re: Removing upper A arms (3/11)
 11/3/22 6:12pm
F4Gary
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Grapevine, TX - USA

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Which means move the radiator.  Ugh.



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Re: Removing upper A arms (4/11)
 11/3/22 7:24pm
Adams' AppleLifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

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I have managed to eek the control arms out by removing the front bolts/washers that secure the bushings. The bolts are a tight fit, up against the shroud, but they will come out....most of the time. Worth a shot, anyway. Back in the day, we would knock the two studs out of the frame to clear the control arm shaft, and make removal much easier. Also worth a look-see. 



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Joel Adams
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Re: Removing upper A arms (5/11)
 11/4/22 11:24am
F4Gary
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Grapevine, TX - USA

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Adams' Apple said:

I have managed to eek the control arms out by removing the front bolts/washers that secure the bushings. The bolts are a tight fit, up against the shroud, but they will come out....most of the time. Worth a shot, anyway. Back in the day, we would knock the two studs out of the frame to clear the control arm shaft, and make removal much easier. Also worth a look-see. 


I didn't realize those were studs, I thought they were bolts.  Dang. Maybe I'll just do the lowers and tie rod ends...



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Re: Removing upper A arms (6/11)
 11/4/22 11:36am
manchestersharkLifetime Member
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Equinunk, PA - USA

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I also removed the studs to reinstall my uppers. It was a LOT easier. I also did a complete alignment upon competition. 



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Re: Removing upper A arms (7/11)
 11/4/22 7:24pm
Adams' AppleLifetime Member
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F4Gary said:

 

I didn't realize those were studs, I thought they were bolts.  



Well...they are "bolts", in the same sense that they are like the wheel studs on the wheel hubs. They have a serrated section in the non-threaded end of the stud, just like wheel studs. The serrations keep the studs from spinning when you install/remove the nuts for the control arm shaft(s). Sometimes, they knock out fairly easy....sometimes they don't wanna play.

 



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Re: Removing upper A arms (8/11)
 11/4/22 8:26pm
F4Gary
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Grapevine, TX - USA

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So you can't get a wrench/socket on the bolt "head" and that's why it is a stud?  Or is it mostly for when an alignment is done and the "bolt" needs to be stationary.



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Re: Removing upper A arms (9/11)
 11/18/22 10:47am
Z06Frank
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Guys:

I read this feed as I'll be doing this on my '68 big block but I don't have AC or PS. Same procedure I'm assuming?

The entire suspension will be coming off for rebuild. Going to be a hell of a project as rubber, springs, and quite a bit is original. I'm sure I'll have questions as I go along with this.

 

Did some suspension upgrades to my C6 Z, but this is my first rodeo for the C3 (I do have a local guy that did his '81 a few years ago so I have some help if stuck too). 

 



|UPDATED|11/18/2022 9:47:18 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Re: Removing upper A arms (10/11)
 11/18/22 8:45pm
Adams' AppleLifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

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F4Gary said:

So you can't get a wrench/socket on the bolt "head" and that's why it is a stud?  Or is it mostly for when an alignment is done and the "bolt" needs to be stationary.


It's mainly just to make it harder for us to work on them...🤬

🤣🤣

The serrations are to keep it from spinning around when servicing the arms, or doing an alignment. You cannot get to the head of the stud(with a socket or wrench) with the arm in position, unless the spindle is popped off the control arm/ball joint.

 

 

With the arm/spindle separated, you can raise the arm up and get to the head of the stud/bolt, but....you cannot turn it because of the serrations. Also, a note on re-installing the arms with the studs off. You'll want to insert the control arm into position before re-installing the bolts/studs. Hold the ball joint end of the arm up, and insert the bolts into the frame. Wit the arm held up, you'll need a 14-18 inch or so long drift and a hammer to knock the bolts back into the frame, taking care to fit the serrated part of the bolt into the serrations on the frame hole...as best you can.

 

 



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Joel Adams
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Re: Removing upper A arms (11/11)
 11/18/22 9:00pm
F4Gary
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Grapevine, TX - USA

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Thanks Joel.  I think I will pay someone to do it.



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