Hey I buttoned up the power brake conversion, learned a few things along the way (like why is the pedal lower than it was before...) and need to bleed out the new system. I could look at my repair manual but

 a) I'm being lazy
 b) its been wrong recently and I don't trust it....so do I need to remove the wheels to get to the "inner" bleeder fitting? Do all 4 corners have "inner" bleeder screws on the calipers?

Somehow I have to talk my wife into "pump it up...hold it ...hold it...ok pump it up again, hey can you check the reservoir for fluid?...." We'll see how far I get with that. The goal is to drive it this weekend after replacing the rear trans oil seal, putting the steering wheel back on, putting the new seat belts in and putting all associated interior panels back in.....

Thanks,
Dave

Inner & outer bleeders on the rears only. A good tip to help with bleeding(other than use a pressure bleeder) is to tap on the calipers with a rubber, or plastic mallet while they have pressure on them. This helps knock any air bubbles off of the walls of the calipers.
Good luck! I hate bleeding brakes on these things....which I why I bought a pressure bleeder a hunnert years ago.


and yes...you really do need to remove the wheels/tire to do it properly.


|UPDATED|4/3/2014 7:29:13 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

It will be much easier to bleed the brakes if you have the car on jack stands (or a lift) and pull all the wheels.  Also a power bleeder will make it an easy, one person job.  Going this route you will spend less time bleeding the system than getting the car in the air, removing the wheels, putting the wheels back on and getting the car back on the ground. 

Made a power bleeder for my compressor. Wow, that was easy and works like a champ! Still have some air in the lines (brake light switch coming on with pressure) so I'll bleed again today. Night and day dif on the power brakes vs. the manual....more than night and day....huge, major, tremendous...even with air in the lines LOL!. Brakes are dragging a bit...I adjusted the parking brake during the brake conversion. I'll start there. Otherwise the MC is getting pre-loaded by the booster pin. Might have to shim the MC out. We'll see. A few more hours of tweaking and it should be good to go. Thanks for the tips! Dave

brakes are dragging but intermittent. Its not the e-brake. Overall the brakes are too sensitive. I'm going to check that the MC is not being per-loaded at rest but I have a feeling this is the issue or an issue. The MBM booster has a rubber pad on the face where the MC rests. I'm thinking it allowed the MC to draw in too close to the booster pin. Not sure why there would have been a rubber pad on the booster MC base. A couple of washers may do the trick.

Dave

Iirc, the difference in the masters between the power/non-power is the size of the piston/bore. There ARE also differences in the depth of the cup on the piston, but that has more to do with different year models than power/non-power. The pushrod from the pedal IS adjustable...might try backing it off a round or two.
Not sure what you mean by a "rubber pad"....there IS a rubber seal on the front of the booster, and originally a felt or foam rubber seal to help keep dirt from working it's way between the master and booster....

I'll take a pic of the rubber pad. It pushes the MC away from the booster. I went with a Wilwood 1.125" Bore MC. My old manual clevis / rod had some adjustabilty. The rear of the new booster came with a clevis that screwed directly onto the booster stud with no adjustabiltiy, no intermediate rod. The stud was too short for adjusting. So I made my own clevis with adjusting rod and it works like it should. The manual MC is 1" bore and has a deep hole on the backside for the clevis rod to be retained in. The new MC has a deep hole plus adapter to fill the hole to use with a power booster. The adapter filled the hole to spec...meaning its not protruding further out than it should be.

So you got it all working right now?
Ben(cthulhu) was having similar problems not too long ago. He had changed boosters, tho....he posted some pics of his boosters...they were different, and the problem was getting the master to bolt up properly....

Right, the old "vette" MC has mounting holes that do not line up with the current "standard of the industry stud spread" on all GM boosters. All the new MC's have slotted mounting holes to accommodate old or new boosters.
I have not addressed my problem yet...which is overly sensitive brakes and dragging calipers. I'll work on spacing the MC away from the booster first. Pretty sure that is part of it or all of it. I'll post pics of that rubber pad that is causing all the issues.
Dave