Topic: Steering Gearbox Replacement
in Forum: C3 Handling Components
Already a Member?
Click Here to Login
Not yet a Member?
Click Here to Register for Free!
My steering wheel on my '70 seems loose with a lot of play. From what I have read I should replace the steering gear box. Found one on E-Bay but not sure how hard it is to remove. Anyone do this type of job recently who would want to share some comments would be appreciated.
Thanks
Murf
Thanks
Murf
SPONSOR AD:: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)
Murf,
Like the dukman said, check the "rag joint" or coupler right where the steer shaft connects to the steer box. If the joint is good then.....jack the front end up...have a friend sit in the car and move the steering wheel back and forth slightly while you observe the movement of the pitman arm. If the movement between the steer shaft and the pitman arm don't move together in "sync" or the pitman arm has side to side movement, then the steering box needs to be overhauled or replaced.
Replacement isn't bad to do. You will need a socket of about 1 1/8 or around that size...I forget...for the big nut holding the pitman arm on....a pitman arm puller....impact wrench is a big help...a torque wrench..these are the only special tools needed....the rest of the tools needed are common sockets and wrenches.
Remove the pitman arm with the puller...split the rag joint from steering box...remove 3 mounting bolts...and don't let it fall and hit ya in the head....
To install....center steering wheel...(rebuilt steer box should already be centered) the flat spot on the splined shaft should be facing the 12 o'clock position. The splined shaft w/flat spot slides into the rag joint...it's a pain in the butt sometimes. (tighten pinch bolt after you bolt the box to the frame.)
Once that is aligned... put the 3 mounting bolts back in, 30 ft.lbs./ securing the steer box to the frame...then slide the pitman arm back on to the steering box shaft and tighten down the nut to 140 ft.lbs. manual steering/ or 185 ft.lbs for power steering.
Your steering box should have equal turns left to right from center to lock. For example: 3 turns total lock to lock. Then center to left lock should be 1 1/2 turns. The same for turning right. If your steering wheel is off center, then take it in to have a shop that does alignments center it for you. As I did mine. I hope this helps. The whole job should only take an hour at the most to do. Or longer as detemined by "beer breaks" in between
Good Luck! Feel free to e-mail me. SARGE81vettenut@aol.com Later, Sarge
Like the dukman said, check the "rag joint" or coupler right where the steer shaft connects to the steer box. If the joint is good then.....jack the front end up...have a friend sit in the car and move the steering wheel back and forth slightly while you observe the movement of the pitman arm. If the movement between the steer shaft and the pitman arm don't move together in "sync" or the pitman arm has side to side movement, then the steering box needs to be overhauled or replaced.
Replacement isn't bad to do. You will need a socket of about 1 1/8 or around that size...I forget...for the big nut holding the pitman arm on....a pitman arm puller....impact wrench is a big help...a torque wrench..these are the only special tools needed....the rest of the tools needed are common sockets and wrenches.
Remove the pitman arm with the puller...split the rag joint from steering box...remove 3 mounting bolts...and don't let it fall and hit ya in the head....
To install....center steering wheel...(rebuilt steer box should already be centered) the flat spot on the splined shaft should be facing the 12 o'clock position. The splined shaft w/flat spot slides into the rag joint...it's a pain in the butt sometimes. (tighten pinch bolt after you bolt the box to the frame.)
Once that is aligned... put the 3 mounting bolts back in, 30 ft.lbs./ securing the steer box to the frame...then slide the pitman arm back on to the steering box shaft and tighten down the nut to 140 ft.lbs. manual steering/ or 185 ft.lbs for power steering.
Your steering box should have equal turns left to right from center to lock. For example: 3 turns total lock to lock. Then center to left lock should be 1 1/2 turns. The same for turning right. If your steering wheel is off center, then take it in to have a shop that does alignments center it for you. As I did mine. I hope this helps. The whole job should only take an hour at the most to do. Or longer as detemined by "beer breaks" in between

TKO500 5 spd.
Borgeson Steering Box
Born 8/1981
Sequence #3975

Click here to see more pics of my Vette on CarDomain.
Lifetime Member #26
Former Member
Send PM
DOWNINGTOWN, PA - USA
Joined: 11/24/2001
Posts: 962
Vette(s): 1969 Monza Red Black Conv / Black Vinal hardtop
454/480 Tremec 5 Speed 308 Posi.Black Leather Interior, PS, PW, Air cond., tilt/tele,AM/FM Cass.-5 Pack CD, Hurst Shifter, side pipes
2004 Yellow convertible with black top and black interior
Sarge,
That seems to be an excellant post to be put into the tricks and tips section.
That seems to be an excellant post to be put into the tricks and tips section.
In addition to looking for play throughout the linkage, I would try adjusting the steering box first. There are two adjustments which are covered thoroughly on the Corvette FAQ website. They are not difficult and made a world of difference in my car after I did them. A worn out box is usually the least likely cause of looseness at the wheel.
Not all eBay sellers are alike. I bought a rebuilt steering box off of eBay, but the seller was Corvette Central. Saved over 40% from their catalog price. They shipped fast, included a new catalog and the box went in easily and worked perfectly.
Thumper
76 Corvette
ZZ4, B&M TH350
Under construction
If you are going to all that trouble I would suggest putting a Borgenson steering up grade in your vette. I did it and the car drives a lot better and does not leak from the steering components. Good Luck what ever you do.
Dan
in Forum: C3 Handling Components
SPONSOR AD: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)