I replaced my stock steering system with the Borgeson system and have been delighted with the results.

The steering is smooth and tight, and no leaks.

I have been on the fence about how to tackle this. The Borgeson system eliminates the PSCV so that is a plus. Did you have any issues collapsing the steering column? Another issue I have heard of is the Borgeson box damaging the existing frame mounts if you do not use a bracket that can be supplied by Borgeson at an extra cost?

I also have installed the Borgeson Steering box.  Fairly easy install.  The Steering column is made to collapse, so it doesn't take much to adjust it.  Just make sure to measure the distance you need more than once.  Collapsing is not difficult, elongating, not so sure how that would go.  It's good to get rid of the leaky hydraulic components and this also takes care of your rag joint issue. Steering is tight and smoooth, better than original in my opinion.  I don't see any issues not using the Borgeson stiffening bracket for a cruiser.  The unit will bolt right to the frame like the old one.  Using the bracket can cause a clearance issue with the mounting bolt heads in the wheel well, possibly causing the tire at full deflection to hit the bolt heads.  I used the OEM bolts instead of the supplied bolts, as the OEM are rounded and have less profile to hit the tire.  There are some good videos on youtube if you search for Borgeson C3 upgrades. 

I always wondered why GM opted to go with the slave cylinder route for power steering on the Corvette instead of using the tried and true hydraulic, recirculating ball unit that they used for years on all the other cars. They would have saved several pounds of weight and complexity and it already has a basic manual recirculating ball unit. 

I already had installed a third-party tilt steering column that used "DD" shafts (one inside of the other), so there was no problem on the length.  The original steering column uses nylon "pins" to keep the shaft in place; the ones on mine were already collapsed.  This made it a bit difficult to push the shaft into the rag joint because the shaft tended to travel back up into the column.  I used a hose clamp to temporarily hold the shaft from being pushed back up while pushing it into the rag joint.  

I went to the Borgeson box after attempting to rebuild the steering valve, and could not get it to not leak.

I did not use the reinforcement on the frame, but I did make sure there were no existing cracks in the frame under the steering box.

I agree 100%.  I had a '76 Chevy pickup truck that had the simpler power steering all in the one unit.  This wasn't good enough for the Corvette???

So that is my fear, I have heard so many horror stories about the PSCV, seems like whether you purchase a new valve, a rebuilt valve, or rebuild it yourself it is going to leak. 

Corvette box was the fast ratio 16:1.  I think the bigger cars and trucks got the 21:1 ratio.  That may be the difference.

The Borgeson box is 12:1 and saves almost 1 whole turn lock-to-lock. Much faster.

At one point I was leaning towards having the steering box rebuilt by Gary R. and keeping the factory system. The issue with that is it seems there are no good sources to get a PSCV and the guys who have factory systems that do not leak are either lying, lucky, or really good at rebuilding the PSCV? I am not sure I trust myself enough and I am typically fairly confident. Not to mention the Borgeson system eliminates the steering slave cylinder which is also prone to leaks. I know there are guys who would never hang a Jeep power steering box on their shark, but it is sure looking like the best to option to me. I appreciate all the input guys, as soon as it dries up enough to get the car in the shop and on the lift, I will update everyone. 

I've been following thye development of this thread, but picked up on the mention of the "horror stories" about the PSCV.

I had heard all the same, but mine was beginning to leak too much and I decided a rebuild had to be worth a try.

I bought the "small" kit (in those days it was possible to buy a full kit with the metal internals, now not sold), from Corvette Central.   I watched a couple of videos and downloaded a Word doc of detailed instructions and set to work.

I took my time, worked methodically, laid everything out carefully as I dis-assembled and was extremely careful about cleaning everything and taking my time with the re- assembly, especially the fitting of the seals.

The job was actually a doddle.  It all went back nicely and (after I'd also put new seals in the ram) I was able to balance the valve with no issues.    

That must have been at least 5 or 6 years ago now and probably 20k miles.  Still looks like new, no leaks and it works perfectly.    

For me, the horror stories were generally unfounded.    I certainly wouldn't hesitate to do it again myself, if it does actually need it in my lifetime!