Topic: steeroids question
in Forum: C3 Handling Components
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Ruh Roh....
Suspension alignment for a rack/pinion should definitely have more camber than normal. But they should have aligned it that way.
The only reason there would be a problem with the rack causing it to not self-center would be if the rack was BENT.
I'd be inclined to agree with the guys here that have that system, and say there may be a problem with the u-joint carriers....and the alignment.
Did they do the a-arm bushings and all?

Suspension alignment for a rack/pinion should definitely have more camber than normal. But they should have aligned it that way.
The only reason there would be a problem with the rack causing it to not self-center would be if the rack was BENT.
I'd be inclined to agree with the guys here that have that system, and say there may be a problem with the u-joint carriers....and the alignment.
Did they do the a-arm bushings and all?
Joel Adams
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DeBerry, TX - USA
Joined: 2/27/2002
Posts: 1006
Vette(s): 1971 383 Stroker- mille miglia red...5 speed
Adams' Apple said: Ruh Roh....
Suspension alignment for a rack/pinion should definitely have more camber than normal. But they should have aligned it that way.
The only reason there would be a problem with the rack causing it to not self-center would be if the rack was BENT.
I'd be inclined to agree with the guys here that have that system, and say there may be a problem with the u-joint carriers....and the alignment.
Did they do the a-arm bushings and all?

Suspension alignment for a rack/pinion should definitely have more camber than normal. But they should have aligned it that way.
The only reason there would be a problem with the rack causing it to not self-center would be if the rack was BENT.
I'd be inclined to agree with the guys here that have that system, and say there may be a problem with the u-joint carriers....and the alignment.
Did they do the a-arm bushings and all?
Yep.. a-arm, ball joints, 4 o ring calipers, master cyl..the whole nine yards
I know the voices aren't real, but they have some pretty cool ideas...
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Cramerton, NC - USA
Joined: 8/22/2006
Posts: 1094
Vette(s): black 1982 coupe slate gray interior, 350 crossfire, 1985 fuel pump, Steeroids R&P conversion
Dwain,
|UPDATED|7/5/2012 1:05:02 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Check the "phasing" of the u joints to make sure they are aligned properly. I also played a bit with the location of the "U" joint on the end of the shaft from the steering wheel and found that helped some with the binding but I also found that the slightest adjustment in the "steering shaft support bearing" made a significant difference in how my steering felt. My steering shaft fits the bearing with NO play whatsoever as it slides through the bearing. I found that when adjusting the bearing it needed to be in a completly neutral position without pushing or pulling on the shaft which would bind the steering as the wheel was turned. I snugged the nut on threaded stud on the side of the bearing with my fingers and locked its position with some red loctite. I then snugged the nut on the other end of the threaded stud with my fingers and went for a drive, it felt good but needed tightening. when I tightened the nut the steering was binding so I backed off. The steering shaft is very tight in the bearing on my unit and there is no room for mis-adjustment. The bearing has to be in a completely neutral position. I ended up using thin shims on the bearing side of the threaded stud between the bracket and nut to adjust the exact spacing of the bearing. When I tightened the nut with a socket the steering would bind until I got it just right. I added a lock washer on the nut side of the stud. I tightened the nut a little and when went for a test drive, tightened a little and went for a test drive. Too loose and steering has slop, too tight and it binds. I finally got just the right adjustment. The nut isnt brutally tight but the lock washer has held it in place now for years. The black witness marks show it hasnt moved at all since I got it right. The pics which are attached may make things clearer.. Good Luck, Chip
|UPDATED|7/5/2012 1:05:02 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
I know I'm late here, but adding a bit more toe in (negative() will solve the problem if everything else has been checked. Had the same problem on my 73 & looked for answers & found none. sometimes they work great out of the box & other times you can go nuts. Tire size will cause problems too.
Alan

DeBerry, TX - USA
Joined: 2/27/2002
Posts: 1006
Vette(s): 1971 383 Stroker- mille miglia red...5 speed
Yee Haa! Aint fooling with these old vettes fun..lol Steering is pretty good now but I've had this vibration every since I got it back. Over 2k it feels like you're on a Sportster. After some agonizing reappraisals, I figgered out it was in the engine and not something like the drive shaft. (which Keisler has had a few problems with). The TKO 500 came with a flywheel, different from my stock one. It finally dawned on me the engine was balanced with the flywheel and putting the 0 balance one on it threw everything off... BIG time. So now the engine is out and I just got the crank, flywheel an balancer back today... Flywheel was out 122 grams. It's now balanced to .04 grams. Going back in with it Monday....determined to make Eureka Springs...
I'm sure nothing else could possibly go wrong now. 


I know the voices aren't real, but they have some pretty cool ideas...
in Forum: C3 Handling Components
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