Topic: Strut Rod Bushings: Rubber or Polyurethane?
in Forum: C3 Handling Components
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Lifetime MemberEquinunk, PA - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2470
Vette(s): 1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.
Rubber is good, or the General would not have used it. Poly is better if looking for longevity and stability. It give a less cushioned ride and enhances the handling of the car. Seein it's just one element your replacing, it won't make a lot of difference. Energy Suspension is on all my movable connections. Very happy with it and enjoy the response from the input at the wheel.
That was my dilema for a long time too, I figured heck they worked for the last 40 years so why change. I did go with poly though mainly because a friend of mine said they were easier to install so for me that was the deal breaker. Poly it is
I went with poly bushings throughout the cars suspension back in '00 or '01. I used graphite impregnated poly from PST. No squeaks and they still look new after all these years.
The poly's are must easier to install.
They do not deflect as much as rubber so you gain a more positive and predictable road manner in my opinion.
The only bushings I stayed with rubber was the body mount bushings. I didn't want to pick up more NVH thought the body. These cars are harsh enough.
TKO500 5 spd.
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Rubber = good, Polyurethane = much better, I agree. One other consideration is if your ever going to have the car judged. Rubber is original. Same for rear spring bushings etc, etc.
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member
Duct tape is the new Black !!
Go all the way with these:
http://www.mamotorworks.com/Corvette/product/competition-strut-rod-kit-602910-1
A lot of guys on corvette forum are having problems with their poly bushings:
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3624590-anyone-have-any-problems-with-vbp-adj-poly-strut-rods.html
Don't shoot, just passing it along...
Also, the guys that have the competition strut rods say they don't increase ride harshness.
"I have had stock strut rods with the OEM bushings, the stock strut rods with poly bushings (lasted over 20 years and still have them in the garage) and currently for the last 9-10 years Competition adjustable Heim jointed strut rods (no bushings at all) which are by far the best strut rod for a C3.
Why? One of the biggest weaknesses in the rear suspension of a C3 is the amount of suspension deflection (adverse camber change) that the stock strut rods allow in the IRS which effects the ride, steering response and handling. Competition adjustable Heim joint struts offer 3 advantages over the OEM type rubber bushing strut rods:
1. Much stronger than the stock OEM struts which will bend/flex under load
2. Eliminates the OEM camber bolt adjusting method in place of a fixed bolt system with adjustable length rods on the strut.
3. NO BUSHINGS to deflect under load and for even just cruising down the highway.
One of the cheapest and best upgrades to the rear suspension of a C3 is the competition adjustable struts with Heim joint endlinks. These struts made the rear end feel very solid, planted, and predictable under all driving conditions-These struts are superior to the alternative struts and not just if you race which I don't with my 78 but just in everyday driving. I have these:
http://www.mamotorworks.com/Corvette...d-kit-602910-1 BTW-the not recommended for street use comment from MidAmerica, I completely do not understand since the ride is hardly effected by these struts on my car...10 years experience now and others have commented the same over the years that use these strut rods
Poly bushings will allow for less flex in the rear suspension but the stock strut rod will also flex under load. My poly bushings lasted forever and are still in good shape but they did tend to squeak... "
|UPDATED|11/25/2015 10:27:40 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
http://www.mamotorworks.com/Corvette/product/competition-strut-rod-kit-602910-1
A lot of guys on corvette forum are having problems with their poly bushings:
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3624590-anyone-have-any-problems-with-vbp-adj-poly-strut-rods.html
Don't shoot, just passing it along...
Also, the guys that have the competition strut rods say they don't increase ride harshness.
"I have had stock strut rods with the OEM bushings, the stock strut rods with poly bushings (lasted over 20 years and still have them in the garage) and currently for the last 9-10 years Competition adjustable Heim jointed strut rods (no bushings at all) which are by far the best strut rod for a C3.
Why? One of the biggest weaknesses in the rear suspension of a C3 is the amount of suspension deflection (adverse camber change) that the stock strut rods allow in the IRS which effects the ride, steering response and handling. Competition adjustable Heim joint struts offer 3 advantages over the OEM type rubber bushing strut rods:
1. Much stronger than the stock OEM struts which will bend/flex under load
2. Eliminates the OEM camber bolt adjusting method in place of a fixed bolt system with adjustable length rods on the strut.
3. NO BUSHINGS to deflect under load and for even just cruising down the highway.
One of the cheapest and best upgrades to the rear suspension of a C3 is the competition adjustable struts with Heim joint endlinks. These struts made the rear end feel very solid, planted, and predictable under all driving conditions-These struts are superior to the alternative struts and not just if you race which I don't with my 78 but just in everyday driving. I have these:
http://www.mamotorworks.com/Corvette...d-kit-602910-1 BTW-the not recommended for street use comment from MidAmerica, I completely do not understand since the ride is hardly effected by these struts on my car...10 years experience now and others have commented the same over the years that use these strut rods
Poly bushings will allow for less flex in the rear suspension but the stock strut rod will also flex under load. My poly bushings lasted forever and are still in good shape but they did tend to squeak... "
|UPDATED|11/25/2015 10:27:40 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Lifetime MemberEquinunk, PA - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2470
Vette(s): 1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.
To the best of my knowledge, ALL Energy Suspension kits come with a small can of grease. I used it on all my installations, and so far have "ZERO" squeaks or thumps.
Former Member
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Milwaukie, OR - USA
Joined: 10/19/2015
Posts: 71
Vette(s): '78 Silver Anniversary T Top coupe,58k orig miles.
THM350 auto, 350 L48, JBM headers,Oyster White interior,.as of Nov '15 in process of painting.
Interesting reading..Thanks all.
Next larger project for our '78 is replacement of virtually ALL the rubber on front-rear suspension..
Not gonna do body mounts..
The old rubber has aged over the years and looks cracked and compressed.
While the car does corner nicely, aligns very well and steering is positive and clean....it's a bit rough on pavement where stuff like manhole covers and patches or other rough-uneven surfaces exist..
My car has the Gymkhana suspension package which has beefed up struts and shocks and I believe that included beefier springs ...that possibly all add to the stiffer ride..but I think the old rubber is the underlying culprit for the hoppiness and roughness.
I see complete kits in various grades..good, better, best from the big box Corvette houses..
The hardware on mine is all in good condition..Car has been cared for well and has about 58K original miles, most of it garage kept.
I will have the fellow who will do the work( with my assistance) help me decide what should be replaced and which of the various kits to go with..
I'm not into high speed driving nor road or track racing..but DO want the old gal to handle the best she can without building her up for things I'll never use..
There's a part of me that'd love to rebuild and beef up the entire car to crank out 350+ HP with all components properly done to accompany such muscle..However, I don't want to drop 25K into the car and never open it up to take full advantage of all that muscle..:)
I'd appreciate your thots on the rubber front-rear suspension things..
Time and cost involved..unintended consequences IF you did the work yourself..etc..
Thanks, JIM
jim in oregon said: Interesting reading..Thanks all.
it's a bit rough on pavement where stuff like manhole covers and patches or other rough-uneven surfaces exist..
My '81 4spd gymkhana (steel spring) rode like a buck board until I installed a "glass" spring. I need to do bushings myself to remove the "wiggle" in the rear when hitting bumps.
Only 34 years together
Former Member
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Milwaukie, OR - USA
Joined: 10/19/2015
Posts: 71
Vette(s): '78 Silver Anniversary T Top coupe,58k orig miles.
THM350 auto, 350 L48, JBM headers,Oyster White interior,.as of Nov '15 in process of painting.
John, Thanks for the heads up on the glas spring changeout..
Did you need to do anything else to the rear suspension..perhaps re alignment?? after the spring changeout?
I may do the rubber bushings stuff first before changing out a perfectly good rear cross leaf spring..:)
The gas tank in my '78 holds 24 gallons of fuel..which adds some weight to the rear end also..
About 190#s..
Add a blanket, a 12 pack Canada Dry ginger ale and a small cooler and that's 200#s..:)fJim
in Forum: C3 Handling Components
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