my1stc3Removed control arms springs idler hub etc, taking to get sandblasted but have couple questions, I am thinking wet paint not powder coated as to give original chassis black color, for knuckle and hub what color is correct also brake shield what color should that be, I am changing g to Moog bushings, I noticed the top ball joints are tight lowers loose, can I have them sand blasted and keep uppers or should I replace those too, taking to sandblasted tomorrow also should I get springs sandblasted and painted or put in the new ones I bought
F4GaryThat is the longest sentence I've ever read. 😁
F4GaryYou have it all apart, just replace everything. Bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends...
my1stc3Yea that is what I figured regarding the parts but on the colors of the original parts? Yes I tend to ask novel type questions 😂
F4GaryYea that is what I figured regarding the parts but on the colors of the original parts? Yes I tend to ask novel type questions 😂
Punctuation is your friend....😉
73sharkAs far as the correct color goes, you would probably find it in an NCRS judging manual.
1973 L-82 4 spd
my1stc3Thank You
Adams' Apple
Steering knuckle(spindle) and hub are natural, cast, no paint. If you want to paint for rust prevention but still look sorta stock, then use a cast iron type paint(Cast Blast). Control arms are not the same color black as the chassis, and the cross-shafts are not painted, they would be a natural cast iron. Ball joints are also not painted. None of this really matters if you are not having the car judged at NCRS, or Bloomington type events. Paint the parts as you wish.
The brake splash shields were dichromate plated. Not sure for the '68 if the color was more silvery, or if they had a yellowish/gold tint.
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56 
My Link 
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
my1stc3Thank You, exactly what I was looking for.
