A month ago, I noted brake fluid (looked like it anyway) around the front right tire.  Finally felt good enough to back her out and pull the front right tire.

No new fluid on the floor.

Even with my brother=in-law pumping the brakes, and then pushing hard on the brakes, no more fluid came out, although the pedal went down almost to the floor.  And the brakes worked.

The rotors looked original with the rivets still in place.  The calipers were Delco Moraine with the number 5473790 on them.  I think they may be original too.

Any thoughts where the fluid could come from?

Jim

Popped hose? If its out of fluid and full of air you might not find fluid coming out until you remedied those 2 things. But if the calipers are original etc. your probably still running the original hoses....would make sense.

Caliper seals can leak when they sit static. If you put pressure behind the seals by pumping the pedal, the fluid will expand the seals, and they won't leak.
Did you check your master cylinder, and is/was it low?
Also, in rare instances, the copper washers on the hose going onto the caliper can "spit" a small amount of fluid while driving...not enough to cause a problem, but the fluid can build up, and then seep down to the floor while sitting. Might check to see if those fittings are nice and tight, if you cannot see any evidence of the caliper seals leaking.


dam spelchek....


|UPDATED|4/8/2014 7:43:09 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Another question or two.

I read in Zip Corvettes info that the Corvette Shop Manual says that one you drill out the brake rotor rivets, the brake rotor can simply be help on with the wheels lug nuts.  In disbelief I checked the 1969 Corvette Shop Manual.  The shop was silent on the matter.  But the 1969 Chevrolet Chassis Manual does indeed say that the rotor can be secured front or back with the wheel lug nuts.

That sounds a little risky to me, being that this is the brakes.  Any one have any better ideas, or perhaps what to use as bolts to ease my mind?

I've drilled out lots of smaller rivets.  Same procedure here?  What size drill?

Thanks again.

Jim

ps.  I'm trying to decide how much to go into this.  I'm leaning towards calipers, pads, rotors, connecting hoses, and master cylinder, to stop any future brake problems.

jb

My advice is to do a complete brake  job!!  You will not regret it in the future.  I did that when I first got my 1981 in September of 2007.  Best decision I made!!!!

No need to drill the rivets out on the front rotors.The rotors/hubs can be removed, and serviced just fine without separating them.
The rear is a different story....they do need to be drilled, unless you just want to go thru all of the hassle to remove the trailing arms, press the hub/rotors off, and re-do the whole shooting match just to turn the rotors for a brake job.
The rotors, whether front or rear, will be fine with just the wheel lugs holding.

Well, I ordered calipers, pads and hoses from Summit Racing.  Stainless steel sleeves and o-ring seals. If the rotors are bad, I'll get them turned at a local parts house.

You still have the caliper with brake pads over the top of the rotor keeping it from "falling off" when the tire is off.

Most new cars do not have "slip over" rotors retained by anything other than the lugs. These rotors are "lug centric" meaning they center up on the lugs. Any rivets or socket head screws are there only to hold the rotors on for easier maintenance. They do not provide any mounting purpose. As stated above, they won't fall off when a tire is removed since the calipers will retain them.
Now as far as getting them turned, all shops capable of turning rotors may still have an "on car" brake rotor turning tool. If you haven't seen one, its pretty neat. Put the car on a lift, remove wheel, roll the cart up and it will slip over the rotor and spin/cut while still mounted on the car. Many European cars of the 70's/80's required this as like with the vette, the rotors were a pain to remove otherwise. You might call around and find a shop that offers this service.
Dave