I have the Firestone Indy 500 Firehawk.  I like them quite a bit.  Granted mine are 60 series.  I think you will be pleased.  Go to Tire Rack web site and look at the compairson ratings.  They seem to be fairly accurate.

Thanks Ken,  It looks like you have the same wire wheels I have currently on my car.  Do you know anyone who would like mine?  They are in pretty good shape, except the right front has some curb rash on the outside of the lip.

John

Those wires are on a 71 BB that now lives in England.  It belonges to a great guy nicknamed PigPen.  He and his passenger (David and Anna) are shown during a cross country US trip.  Those photos were at a stop near my home.  I'm the guy with the mustach.  The really ugly Vette with no paint on it is mine.

Granted, they are nice wheels.

Back  to trouble shooting my steering problem.  I notice that with the vehicle sitting still on the ground engine off, I can move the steering wheel back and forth about 10deg.  The motion translates in the  pitman arm moving the link which goes into the power valve back and forth.  Then with the engine running (power steering pump providing pressurized fluid to the power valve) the play at the power valve appears to go away and the movement moves all the links and the wheels.  Is this normal?  Still on the road the car moves all over and the steering wheel has about 10deg of play around center.

Also just pulling and pushing on the steering rods I don't feel any play, except at the power valve with engine off.

John

Have you checked the bushings on the rear suspension. If your rear suspension is worn it could cause you to be moving around on the road. You also might want to take it to an alignment shop and see where everything is set. If its off aways, it can make the vette a little squirrely

Also start the car, and turn the steering wheel while watching with the weight on the tires.  You will be able to see any play in the moving parts when someone turns the steering wheel back a forth just over that 10 degree range.

But it could be in the rear.

Well, I jacked the front left tire off the ground last night and felt for play by rocking the tire (top and bottom) in and out.  I did feel some play.  I pulled the wheel and tightened the axle nut one notch on the castle nut.  I replaced the wheel and it seemed better, but I could still rock it and feel play.  I think the ball joints are worn.  I couldn't feel any play in the A-arm bushings, but I expect that would require more force than I was able to exert.  I guess I will start out by rebuilding the front end.  Ecklers has a complete kit for $200.  I have a spring compresser, and some 2/2 Arm pullers, but have never dissambled/removed a front suspension.  How difficult is it.  I assume the A-arm bushings will need to be pressed out and in by a machine shop.  Can I just use a 2 or 3 arm puller to pop the ball joints?  I don't have any ball joint forks.  I plan on leaving the power steering in place and rebuild the front end bushings and ball joints first and see if the steering tightens up.

Also I got my 73 rally wheels and manual steering relay rod/pitman arm last night.  The wheels look pretty good, but a couple of the center caps have a few dings around the edges.  I figure I probably paid a little too much at $600, but they are supposed to be originals off a 73, and the chrome is good.

Thanks, John

No, a puller won't loosen the ball joints.  You can get a fork at AutoZone or similar place.  You can buy or rent them.  The rental is actually free when you return the tool.

When you check for play in ball joints and control arm bushings, be sure to support the lower control arm, so it holds the spring tension.  If the wheel is hanging, the play won't show up due to spring tension.

AND when you take ball joints and control arm bushings loose, MAKE SURE to support the spring.  There is a huge amount of energy there, and if it get loose unexpectedly, it can damage the car, injure or kill you!   It does take a bit of muscle work but with care it's not too bad.  In the not too distant future, I am going to completely rebuild the front end of my car.  All of the joints, tie rods, bushings, new springs, everything that wears.   I will take pictures as I go.  But it may be a month before I get to this job.

kstyer38821.3906018519

I did my front end this winter. Set the front of the on jack stands. Put your jack under the spring pocket of the A arm and put just a little pressure on the A arm. When separating the ball joints from the spindles leave the ball stud nut on. Just loosen it so there is about 1/4" of gap between the spindle and nut. This helps keep things together when the spindle separates from ball joint stud. Start with one side and separate the lower first but leave the nut in place. Then do the upper. When the ball studs are loose, jack up the lower A arm so you can remove the lower nut. Now slowly lower the jack. Do this from in front of the vette so your not in the way should the jack slip and the spring pops out. Once the A arm is down the spring can be remove safely. If your worried about the spring coming out, you can rent spring compressers. I did mine with out one, you just need to take your time. Have fun

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/suncountry/Front%20En d%20Rebuild/Paintedparts.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/suncountry/Blastedpar ts009.jpg

I also have the Firestone Indy 500's and they ride great and look great.

Jim