Trying to replace my rear crossover brake line that runs betweeen the brass blocks at the back of the car.  Guess they are the originals becuase I cannot remove them even after soaking with PB Blaster and yes, using the correct flange wrench!  Finally got the drivers side flex hose that goes to trailing arm off and looks like the threads in the brass block are damaged.  Not something I want to take a chance with, so want to replace the block.  Any one have any tips for replacing?  I will have to take off the front to rear line and the crossover line, do NOT want to replace front to rear line and worried about it damaging in the process of removal.  Project creep again!        

Hi Mario,

Considering the location of the junction block on the driver side, this may be of absolutely NO help at all, but...
I have found that tapping on the fitting with a hammer helps break it loose. If you can get to it, either with a long extension, or other type of aid, try tapping on the front edge of the fitting, all the way around. Don't get too aggressive, since you can deform the fitting to where you won't be able to get a wrench on it. Of course, soaking it a few days ahead of time should help. Brake fluid makes a pretty good penetrant, too..

Also, always try to tighten the fitting before trying to loosen it. You'd be surprised at how often that in itself will break one loose.


|UPDATED|5/28/2013 9:23:54 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

One question for both of you...is the line ok a foot or so off the block? If it is can a new line be cut in place with a flare tool to make new ends? I know it's tight under there but if you can't get them off the block and need new lines this would work. Just throwing it out there...oh btw...I'm just across the rt 30 bridge if you ever need help with your car.

I know you said you didn't want to replace the front to rear line, but if it's original to the car, you may want to bite the bullet and do it.  That's where I found mine patched from an earlier leak.  I did it with the body on the car using 3-ton jackstands.  Not easy, but not as hard as I thought.  If nothing else, you may teach yourself some new swear words.

If you're going to replace it anyway, and at the risk of seeing the real mechanics in the room cringe, I've gotten some old lines off intact with smooth jawed vice grips when all else failed.  Once the fittings start rounding, it's almost game over even with a good quality fitting wrench.  Use a 6" or so smooth jaw vice grip, clamp it down tight and go for it.  I've never had the fitting break off, although it'll likely be deformed and unusable when you're done.  But you'll save the block.

Good luck to you.

Just reviewing this post again as I tried again to get these fittings loose with no luck, decided to leave the block in and see if it leaks.  If it does I'll worry about it then. I also tried to figure out how to replace the front to rear line while my car is on jack stands as you said you did, but I cant see how you did it.  I have a 72 with a manual transmission so the crossmember is welded in place, the brake line also snakes through the rear cross member.  I dont see how you can snake a pre-bent line through there, any hints?  Tried from the front first, then from the back first, no luck!  Perhaps with more clearance under the car as with a lift it could be done.  Am I missing something?

I feel for ya, Mario.... I don't know of anyone that's been able to replace the brake lines without pulling the body, or at least raising it off the frame. The only way to do it is with a straight piece of tubing, and bending it to fit as you go. If you try to use pre-bent tubing, you'll wind up un/re-bending it anyway, so why not start with a straight piece?
Having the car way up in the air certainly helps with maneuver room....as does having a removable trans crossmember.
Hope your p-valve block don't leak. As far as the stainless rear cross-over line, you may need to put a few more bends in it to get it short enough to work...and stainless ain't easy to bend.