On my next day off I am going to fix the heater controls.The wheels are stuck,I brought the kit to do the repair.Just want to know if anyone knows of anything I should watch out for.

I gutted the entire interior to replace the dash harness.  My face plate was already broken, so I replaced it.  The controls were still OK, so I just reinstalled them.  I wish now that I had replaced the heater vacuum motors that open and close the doors.  They are sluggish and may be leaking.  But it could be my old control valving.  Subject of another repair down the road.

While I had the dash out I pulled out all the duct work and cleaned it with Clorox CleanUp.  If you don't pull the dash you can't remove the defroster duct.  They had large gaps, so I duct-taped them together.  (I know, I may regret that.)

With the center console removed you can see the wiring passing along the trani tunnel.  Good time to inspect and rewrap or rehang with wire ties.  Check for pinching and look out for melting or charring, signs of shorting in the harness.  If you find that, you'd better repair it.  Go ahead and replace the lamp in the tranni indicator lens, and even the lens if it is crazed beyind polishing, and the pointer if it is busted.  Good opportunity to insulate the trani tunnel as well.  That will really pay off with a cooler quieter interior.  There are kits available.  You will have easy access to the power window switches.  They are cheap and they wear out. 

I may get a gig with my jazz quartet in Ellicott City soon.  If I do, I will be driving the Vette.  Is that anywhere near Edgewood?  My brother lives in Annapolis.  I was born in PG County.  My dad's parents lived in Centreville, my mom's folks in Cheverly.  Our first home was Cheverly.  I live in Manassas, VA now.

Good luck with the controls.  Call me if I can help: 703-407-1549

Steve

 Thanks Steve for info,I will be checking all the things that you mentioned.Ellicot City is on 40 West,Edgewood is on 40East.It's about 45 min to an hour away on the other side of Baltimore in Harford Co.

The rotating air valves get a little leaky with age, so I always put a drop of oil on the edge and work the valve to get some oil in between to help seal.  In extreme case, I have separated the valve, sanded it  on a flat surface, and reassembled it with a screw and spring.  It was probably not worth the amount of work.

Larry

AH AHA H AH wHAT A PAIN IN THE.That puts a new meaning to "boy I wish I had small hands. One more question dose anyone know what that small metal rod running along the trans tunnel is? Atleast I got paid for my agervation,found a Kenndy 50 cent coin. Again thanks for the advice.

One of the Corvette magazines has a console control rebuild article in a past issue.  Possibly Corvette Enthusiast.

[QUOTE=RNB]AH AHA H AH wHAT A PAIN IN THE.That puts a new meaning to "boy I wish I had small hands. One more question dose anyone know what that small metal rod running along the trans tunnel is? Atleast I got paid for my agervation,found a Kenndy 50 cent coin. Again thanks for the advice.[/QUOTE] Are you talking about a rod under the car, if so there is the parking brake cable and also the battery cable is clamped inside the tunnel.

 No it a rod about 3/16  running along the transmission tunnel under the consol, I checked my AIM and it didn't show it.I got a picture of it and when I figure out how to put pic in post I will post it. RNB2008-03-31 21:53:47

[QUOTE=RNB] No it a rod about 3/16 running along the transmission tunnel under the consol, I checked my AIM and it didn't show it.I got a picture of it and when I figure out how to put pic in post I will post it. [/QUOTE]

Are you sure that's not the shifter cable? It runs down thru that area...
If ya want, you can e-mail me th epic(s), and I'll post them fo rya.
Just P/M me.