I have plenty of questions too. I have a 69 never touched 350/300 convert riverside gold with 34,000 miles.
well now it needs touched...I started with interior screw set, because I noticed that the previous owner subsituted drywall screws....what I'm finding is that some of the helicoils in the door panels have spun loose. No problem I can re-epoxy those..However the screws for the visor spin freely on closest to the mirror..I'm thinking that I have to remove the interior trim and replace the holding clips...if that's what they have. I also purchassed a new center park brake console from Daves corvette....it's plastic!!! not firber glass....it feels flimsy. I will have way more questions than these few.. my ultimate vette is a 69, and I have one...

Welcome to the Shark Pond.

The visor screws go through the windshield trim and actually anchor in the windshield frame steel. Sounds like yours are either the wrong size or (more likely) have rusted apart or you have frame rust issues. I have the same problem with one on mine. Open it up and find out.

Good Luck.

John

PS - chrome bumpers . . . there is no substitute

The e-brake console on my 75 is plastic also. I think they were supposed to be that way (at least in 75). It doesn't feel flimsy once it's all bolted up. Welcome to the registry!

as for stripped out /rusted out screws...

drill the hole out bigger and then you can fill the holes with jb/weld sand it back down smooth and then drill and tap the jb to the right size..

i did this all over my rusted out ragtop frame..

you cant even tell i did it..

Thanks for the tips...this is very exciting to me, and I can't wait to get started. I'm still trying to figure out how to post, and retrieve messages over here.
When I pull the interior trim around the windshield, what would be the best way to remove the rust prior to filling the holes with JB weld? Also I read somewhere on here about a filler to use to coat over the steel frame before painting...what is that, were do I get some?
As for rust, the only other spot that I'm aware of is directly under the radiator...it looks to be part of the frame and runs parallel to the radiator, then bolted the frame like a cross member. I don't know what the name of that is, so I don't know what to ask for to replace it.

seathree said: . . . When I pull the interior trim around the windshield, what would be the best way to remove the rust prior to filling the holes with JB weld? Also I read somewhere on here about a filler to use to coat over the steel frame before painting...what is that, were do I get some?

If it's just surface rust (and we hope that's all it is) I usually work it down with 80-grit sandpaper. Occasionally I'll follow that up with a wire brush. Since you'll be doing this near glass, mask off about four inches of glass up to the frame. Masking tape is better than nothing, but duct tape is what I recommend. Don't take any chances on scratching the glass.

There is a frame finish called "POR-15." Great stuff, formulated to be applied directly to a rusty surface. Everybody sells it: Eckler's, Corvette Central, Corvette America, etc.

"Git 'er done!"

John

"As for rust, the only other spot that I'm aware of is directly under the radiator...it looks to be part of the frame and runs parallel to the radiator, then bolted the frame like a cross member. I don't know what the name of that is, so I don't know what to ask for to replace it."

It's called a radiator support. Rust there is very common on all sharks. New (aftermaket) ones are available, pays to shop around for the best price. They are year specific, be sure to get the correct one. Another real common place for rust is in the area of the rear frame kickups and the rocker channels.

Also, don't be surprised if you find that the metal inside the windshield-header trim piece is rotted. It's also available through the major supply houses ($50).

If you find serious frame rot (scaling or rust-thru), you're looking at $400 to $700 for new frame parts - plus some skilled labor to replace them.

Good luck

John

You guys are fantstic! As for rust through, what would be considered too much rust? The integraty of the upper windshield support appears to be strong. It's only the screws closest to the rear view mirror that attaches the visor pins that's loose, I removed drywall screws from a previous repair the diameter of which is larger than the original one I just purhased.

I'm sold, I'm going gold

seathree said: . . . As for rust through, what would be considered too much rust? The integraty of the upper windshield support appears to be strong. It's only the screws closest to the rear view mirror that attaches the visor pins that's loose . . . I'm sold, I'm going gold

The best tool for this (one man's opinion) is a body hammer. Tap firmly around the holes or any other area of concern with the "pick" end of the hammer. If the pick doesn't go into the metal, life is good. If it sticks into the frame metal at all, that's a judgement call. If it goes through the metal . . . well, you get the picture.

John

PS - I think the Gold will match your car nicely.