Just got this new 69, need to past inspection, and have to repair speedometer. Where can I find information/instruction to take apart the front dash ...
Thanks
Lolochar

|UPDATED|3/7/2004 10:17:33 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Nice ride!

There have been lots of posts regarding this. You could try a search, but I just did this and basically it goes like this:
-remove the pillar covers
-remove the gauges
-unscrew the dash panels and unplug the connections (mark them and take pictures for re-assembly)
-remove dash pad
-lower the steering wheel for access to the drivers dash panel.
-remove the driver's panel and unplug the connections.
-unplug the speedo cable
-pull the cable out with needle nose pliers
-clean the cable
-lube with white grease
*at this point (before putting back together) I would replace the bulbs, fuses, or anything else while your in there.
-reverse the process

Look for some of the other strings. There are much better discriptions available. If you have any specific questions just ask.
Glenn

Lolochar, great looking 69 you have there, welcome to the forum! The above poster is on target with labeling and sorting everything. My own opinion: there really are no shortcuts. I would remove the seats, e-brake console, then the shift console. You will then be able to remove everything else much easier. Be very careful removing the center gauge cluster, it is extremely fragile.

Big Fish is right. It sounds like a difficult task, but if you take your time and remove everything slowly, and carefully you will find that it is not that hard to do.
Good luck.

I just finished removing the entire interior on my 70.

There are some very important things to remember.

Most importantly, if you do not have the AIM, you should have one to do this because it shows where the fasteners are and how the harnesses are clipped in so that you know where to look to get everything apart. Even more importantly it will show how to put it back correctly so everything works with no rattles.

1. The guys are right about removing the console and the center cluster. Some of the hardware is in a very tight spot. Be extremely careful when pulling out the center cluster and make sure you do not put any pressure on the top of the center bezel or it will break! My was already broken when I got the car.

Removing the center cluster makes it easier to access the back of the speedo and tach cluster. You will need a lot of patience and some flexible 1/4" drive extensions will come in very handy when removing the two screws attaching the center cluster to the console and when removing the screws holding the vent cable on the underside of the console if yours is a non-air car.

2. The tach and speedo cable have clips that hold them on. You will have to push them in to get the cables off and they are in a tight spot. The dash pad can be loosened to make assess easier.

3. I recommend that you drop the steering column down to make pulling the drivers side pad and cluster out possible without breaking anything. To gain enough movement in the column, disconnect the ragjoint attaching the column to the steering box. This is in addition to the two nuts under the dash that attach the column to the car.

4. It will be easier to pull the driver's side out if you get a couple of pieces of threaded rod(I think 3/8 or 1/2), get a total of six nuts to fit the rod. Thread the rod up in to the mounting bracket but before you do make sure you have two nuts between the lower column mount and the bracket. You are going to lock one nut on the under side of the top bracket, use the third nut over top of the mounting bracket and lock it down so that you have sandwiched the lower bracket to the top bracket. You can then use the third nut to push the column down so it will stay out of your way and free up both hands. Remember that the rod will be used where both the screws were removed attaching the column to the top bracket. Use good judgement and do not force the coumn down too much!! Just enough to pull the dash assembly out.

If you are going this far you may want to have all of the gauges cleaned and calibrated, housings redone, pointers touched up because you will not want to do
this again.

You do not have to pull the dash pad out but you will want to loosen it to make getting to the dash harness and connectors easier.

Unless the dash pad is still very soft, it will crack because you will have to bend it to get it out and frankly you do not need to completely remove it!

Hope this helps. It is easy but very time consuming to do it carefully without forcing the issue or breaking anything.

Okay, one last thing. The warmer it is the better because the 35 year old vinyl tend to be very brittle unless it is very warm. If when backing some of the screws out your start to hear a cracking sound it is probably the vinyl. You can prevent this by carefully using a hair dryer to carefully heat up the vinyl so it is flexible.

Have fun!

Bill

My 75 had a dead speedo when I got it, turns out the cable was just detatched from the back. I'm not sure what needs to be repaired about yours, but before you take the dash out of that car I'd recommend checking behind to see if its just the cable.

Scot

If you need help finding the above you can send me an e-mail or give a call. paragonspirit@hotmail.com or 301-526-5236

PS - You own my dream vette. Would you like to trade? I throw in all the cash I've got too! LOL (Do you take rolls of quarters?). Enjoy what I would consider a perfect Vette!

Thanks every one for the help.
The front dash is all out by now ...
I almost wanted to cry.......
Some really bad workmanship was done on the wiring.
Espacially around the replacement usa-5 radio.
Will post some pictures.
So now, I've to put it back togethe right, wich is the thing to do for peace of mind.
Paragon thanks for the kind words.....
This car looks stock but it's not .....
New 502ci crate GM engine, 535hp,550lbft, just in case you need it...
Complete new rear end and frame, 4 links system with ford 9 inch, it's the only way to take that kind of torque without tearing everything apart...
Fuel cell, electric fuel pump,ect ....
Definetly a 69 shark...
Lolochar

Lolochar,

I know what you mean, I couldn't believe the crazy wire stuff behind mine either. Good luck.
Glenn

I found the same thing on mine. I pulled out the entire main harness and sent it out to be refurbished.

Bill

Lolochar, I have an original monaural radio (AM/FM) with convector for your car for $75.00 plus shipping. It does work, let me know if you are interested. You will need to get original speakers to use any original radio however, the newer radios use different speakers that will overload the outputs of the older radios. 1968-1976 are all the same radio.