I had the rubber seals replaced around the doors and windows and now the windows will not go up all the way without opening the door and will not come down without opening the doors. I'm guessing that the new seals are making a tighter fit; but is there any options besides opening the doors when I want to raise and lower the windows?

Most, if not all makers of repro weather and door seals use a much stiffer rubber than used by GM back in the day.  GM used it not only because it worked (well...maybe not so well in Corvettes), but also it did so with minimum time for assembly line workers to install and align the windows quickly and send the car down the line.

Not sure but you might spray the seals or wipe them with some silicone spray.

I used quality repro seals back on 2004 and guess what - they're still tight and I resolved a while ago to just pop the doors open to roll up the winders. They come down fine from the fully closed position...

Thanks guys, for your input. I don't know if I am any closer to a solution; but at least I know I'm not the only one with this problem. I have tried adjusting the window position with no sucess. On my car, the window will go up fine to about 2 or 3 inches from the top and stop. If I have them all the way up, they will not come down unless I open the door to let them get started. I purchased the seals from Midamerican Motorworks so maybe I will give them a call and ask for some tech help. I will keep you posted on my progress.

I had the same problem on one of my first C3s.  A power window expert told me to clean and white lube all the tracks and rollers.  What a difference!  And after all these years, it certainly wouldn't hurt to align everything.

Larry

Thanks, Larry, by white lube do you mean lithium grease?

Yes.  I use white lithium in a spray can.

Larry

I have replaced most of my weather stripping in the last year, still have not got it to "sit" exactly right in all areas but I found that it takes a lot of patience. With my door glass I put them on in  steps, 1st- rear side verticals, 2nd- pillar post (on the piller there is a small bumper clip to help push the glass out and into place on the T Top, watch the angle you rivit this on, it needs to just catch the glass on the way up), 3rd door pannel outside, 4th T Top then inner door pannel seal. Did them a couple hours apart on warm days one door at a time and closed the door, with window up for each new piece of weather strip letting it "set". Like Larry said you need to spend some time servicing or replacing the rollers and tracks in the door, most inportant. I have electric windows and it took a bit but they both work now. Cleaning the rubber with some brake clean and a cloth before putting on the adhesive seemed to help soften the weather strip and also make the adhesive work better as well. Good luck.