Frustrating. I redid the entire interior after putting in thermo foil to knock
down header heat. Now I have a guy lined up who is going to do the seats
custom by hand but he needs me to remove the 3-prong factory
through-the-seat-belt. Now comes the stupid question part: how the
heck is that done? I slid the plastic sheld off the bucle and the belt is
sewn onto the buckle. I unscrewed the plate holding the buckle into the
seat, but there's no room for the buckle to pull clear of the seat. What am
I missing? My build manual skipped this belt-through-seat option all
together. !!!???!!! Thanks

Check with Brian(Redwingvette). I saw a post a while back where he had replaced his with some out of a Camaro/Fireturd, and he said something about how to do it.

Here's a link to his site with instructions on how he did his. It may help, may not, but you might holler at him, anyway! Adams' Apple38545.8021180556

Thanks A.A., and Redwingvette, I see it's all in the retractor. I'll pull it
tomorrow and disconnect from there.

That's why I love this site......

You go from  "WTF???" to  "Oh Yeah!" in one day.

Priceless.

Alan

let us know how the insulation worked when you get your car back on the road, and how much work involved. did you check out any of the

other recommendations for heat problems,such as the vent seals behind the kick panels,air cond plenum, and seals thru firewall. i would like to do the insulation over the winter.

I had it on the road last weekend, joined VNCRUISER and another buddy
for
the Fat Fink show in the desert. Everything was finished except the seats,
but I didn't want to miss the show....
First I did the entire plenum with
caulk (I have small arms, was able to reach all around). Did find my air
vent door seal was broken, will have to order a rebuild kit. I then padded
the entire cockpit area (up to under the drivers dash as far as I could
reach, didn't want to open THAT can of worms) with the 'thermo racing'
foil I
got on ebay. Although it is thin and easy to work with, It was alittle tricky
to fit all the pieces together - I used
tracing paper to template the areas I wanted to lay the foil using a
sharpie, cut out the paper, traced it on the foil, cut that out with kitchen
sissers and laid them down with 3M adheasive. I then used aluminum foil
tape to seal the pieces flush together. Did a pretty tight job. Even covered
the firewall plugs after using caulk around them. I then put in
the carpet kit I got from wilcox, it's straight forward, you just have to
measure
for the seats good. Then hit the road. I did notice the tunnel was cooler
and the temp guage I placed at the foot well reached 100, that's 10
degrees down from before . But HEAT STILL POURED IN FROM THE
VENTS . So, running down the list of fixes from another post, I plan
to start with the AC evap. box seals and work my way around until I kill
that @#$% heat! I'll keep you posted on what I find. Meantime, I'd have to
say, I am glad I dropped the foil in under the new carpet. If you're doing
the carpet anyway, may as well, I think it does kill some header heat, just
do the trans tunnel good....

Lowbrowser, if you want a cheap but very effective fix for that vent door:

I used rubber roofing material and trimmed it for a nice air-tight fit. I installed it sandwiched in the door the same as the original material. I am very confident this material will far outlast the original foam material these doors were equipped with. Any local roofing contractor would probably be happy to give you a scrap big enough for this project.

Many thanks Big Fish! I figured SOMETHING sandwiched around it would
work, but I couldn't figure WHAT to use. Just ask for 'Rubber roofing
material"? Thanks again for the tip, Gotta LOVE this site !