Topic: Power steering
in Forum: C3 Q&A with Dave McLellan
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Rebuilt steering pump, rebuilt cylinder. Pump seems to work because the fluid was sucked down while refilling after installation. The valve seems to work because the adjustment nut moves the power cylinder in and out. So why is my steering like a semi truck. I checked the steering box and added some fluid. But that is just a worm gear that usually won't cause any problems.
This all started after I took off the steering wheel and hub to work on the horn. I tightened the steering wheel nut as required. This could not have caused my problems.
What next. It really takes some body strength to drive the 68 now. The valve was the only part I did not replace in the power steering system. I have the books on this and I did it by the book.
Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Help!!!!!!!!!!!! Help!!!!!!!
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And by the way the belt is not slipping, no squeal when going from right to left stops. I moved the wheel back and forth several times to get the air out of the system. So what else can I do to get my steering back????

Equinunk, PA - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2466
Vette(s): 1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.
Did you do anything to the CONTROL VALVE? They have to be bled and balanced as well. Tires should be off the ground to do this.
Former Member
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Mounds View, MN - USA
Joined: 5/24/2007
Posts: 1031
Vette(s): 70 LT1 coupe, 69 350 HP coupe, 69 390HP 427 coupe, 71 LS5 convert, 85 coupe, 93 coupe
If it started when you had the steering wheel off, you should eliminate that as a cause first. Possibly disconnect the rag joint and make sure the steering column turns freely. Since you get no squeal, it seems unlikely there is suddenly a lot of resistance in the spindle/ball joint/tie rod assembly. If everything is bled properly, that pretty much only leaves a bad cylinder.
Larry
Larry
the steering pump hoses attached to the steering valve and two separate hoses come off the valve and attached to the cylinder. That is all there is to it. The valve has a nut that adjusts the in and out of the cylinder. This does work. I replaced the pump and the two hoses that went to the valve. I replaced the cylinder but not the hoses that went to the cylinder from the valve. They are in good condition. The hoses are hard to make a mistake on and they are connected correctly. I may try and bleed the system another way and to just brake open the lines going into the cylinder enough to let some fluid out and see if maybe it has some type of air lock in the system. Don't know much else to do. Air in the system could cause the hard steering.
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Cramerton, NC - USA
Joined: 8/22/2006
Posts: 1094
Vette(s): black 1982 coupe slate gray interior, 350 crossfire, 1985 fuel pump, Steeroids R&P conversion
Did you change the power steering pump at the same time you did the horn repair or was it changed later to try to correct the problem after the horn repair?
I did my horn repair first and had been fixing other problems which my painter did not put back together right. I had some grounding problems. I just replaced the horn relay in the eng. compartment and the horn contact in the steering column. So the car had been sitting for awhile. After I lowered the car off the stands is when I noticed I had no power steering. So I replaced the pump, and the cylinder, thinking one of the two could be the problem. Only thing else is the valve.
Today I took the hoses off the cylinder going to the valve, just to see if I had fluid going to the cylinder. I did and the pump did pump new fluid back into the cylinder. I bled the system again and notice lots of bubbles in the pump but I let it sit for awhile and started the car again. I have done this several times today and the air bubbles are getting few and fewer. But the steering is still hard. More again tomorrow. Guess I will have to take it to a mechanic.
in Forum: C3 Q&A with Dave McLellan
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