Topic: Detailing/painting engine Bay
in Forum: C3 General Discussion
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I figured while I have the engine and tranny out of my baby, I would spruce up the engine bay. Ive removed as much as I can and was gonna powerwash it and degrease it, then what? Sand it first? Prime it? then paint? How have you guys done it. I dont have aperfect Vette ( a ten footer as they say) but want it to look sharp with the hood open. Thanks guys......... 

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Hey WATERBOY1976,
I detailed the engine bay on my 75 while I had the engine and tranny out. It is much easier that way and you can make it look really good once the motor is back in. I cleaned and degreased everything very good (Simple Green works good for this). You can wrap items that you don't want painted ( wiring harness, master cylinder, wiper motor, AC hoses, vacuum hoses etc) with Aluminum foil. It conforms to the items wrapped and stays put, plus it is easy to remove. I used gloss Black to do the frame rails, radiator support, A-arms, steering linkage and any metal bracketry. I used flat Black to do the firewall, cowl, inner fenders and underside of the hood. The flat Black on the fiberglass parts does not accentuate any imperfections the way that the gloss Black would. For the hood latches, support and hinges, I used Stainless steel paint. It is durable and provides a finish that looks like new metal.
Don't forget to wipe all of your rubber hoses down with laquer thinner. This cleans them very well. Armour All them once they are installed. Little details like replacing all of the factory stickers and adding new hose clamps will give the new engine bay finished look and does not add that much more cost to the job.
Once you get the engine back in, the car will look like a new one under the hood. Good luck and post pictures when you are finished.
I detailed the engine bay on my 75 while I had the engine and tranny out. It is much easier that way and you can make it look really good once the motor is back in. I cleaned and degreased everything very good (Simple Green works good for this). You can wrap items that you don't want painted ( wiring harness, master cylinder, wiper motor, AC hoses, vacuum hoses etc) with Aluminum foil. It conforms to the items wrapped and stays put, plus it is easy to remove. I used gloss Black to do the frame rails, radiator support, A-arms, steering linkage and any metal bracketry. I used flat Black to do the firewall, cowl, inner fenders and underside of the hood. The flat Black on the fiberglass parts does not accentuate any imperfections the way that the gloss Black would. For the hood latches, support and hinges, I used Stainless steel paint. It is durable and provides a finish that looks like new metal.
Don't forget to wipe all of your rubber hoses down with laquer thinner. This cleans them very well. Armour All them once they are installed. Little details like replacing all of the factory stickers and adding new hose clamps will give the new engine bay finished look and does not add that much more cost to the job.
Once you get the engine back in, the car will look like a new one under the hood. Good luck and post pictures when you are finished.
Take care and remember, "IWAVE2"
Jon
1975 CORVETTE (IWAVE2)
1971 CORVETTE (BLU BYU)
1982 COLLECTOR EDITION CORVETTE (COOL CE)
If you are searching for a real trick look....check out the use of truck bed liner spray. You can now buy it at Autozone, and many other autoparts stores. You want to get a "body schultz"/undercoating style gun.
Pressure wash, degrease, and run a scotch brite pad over the firewall and inner fenders. No need to really do too much in the way of perfection to any cracked or damaged areas.
Cover up what you don't want coated...and have at it!
It leaves a semi gloss durable chemical resistant...long lasting semi textured surface that hides minor imperfections and looks excellent!
I also prefer semi gloss, or satin black for the other components. It draws less attention to the parts, yet keeps them looking factory clean.
Have fun and take plenty of photos!
Pressure wash, degrease, and run a scotch brite pad over the firewall and inner fenders. No need to really do too much in the way of perfection to any cracked or damaged areas.
Cover up what you don't want coated...and have at it!
It leaves a semi gloss durable chemical resistant...long lasting semi textured surface that hides minor imperfections and looks excellent!
I also prefer semi gloss, or satin black for the other components. It draws less attention to the parts, yet keeps them looking factory clean.
Have fun and take plenty of photos!
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C3VR Founder
Eagleville, PA - USA
Joined: 11/1/2001
Posts: 18534
Vette(s): Used to own a 1979 Corvette now owned by JB79
I can't help you do it, but I'd like to ask that you take some before & after pictures and post them here!
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
-Adam Wartell
NCM Lifetime Member #1222
Founder: C3 Vette Registry
C4 Vette Registry, C6 Vette Registry
My first Vette, now owned by JB79:

I am doing the same to mine with the engine in. Isn't satin black the correct paint to use? Here is a cost saver in that area. I am using Rustoleum Satin Black patio furniture spray for mine. It is 3.99 a can instead of 7 - 10 for the satin that the Vette Catalogs have and you can get it at most any hardware store or Wal-Mart. Several that I have talked to say it looks same and is just as durable. I have been using a soft wire wheel on a drill to clean followed by wiping with lacquer thinner or brake parts cleaner. Have media blasted some of the removed parts such as radiator support and brackets. It is basically impossible to get every bit of the engine but anything you can't get you can't see and I will do a better job if I ever take the engine out. I also am doing the wiper well area. Removed all the undercoat type material from there as it was all deteriorated. Planning on using undercoat on Wheel side fender wells. I am unsure if any of the parts should be gloss such as the air cleaner. Any advice would be appreciated.
in Forum: C3 General Discussion
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