Didn't have much time to get started today, but I got as far as pulling the spare down (not original - far from it) and then staring at the tire carrier.

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I wanted a Corvette my whole life, but I never dreamed of all the wonderful people I would meet because of it!

Marshall, the two bolts at the front of the carrier are flat on two sides only...kinda a weird set-up, but you can get a wrench on them. Also, you'll need to loosen the two lock-nuts at the top of those two bolts first. I think they take a 3/4" wrench, but I don't really remember. The other end of the bolts, the weird end, takes the same size wrench, I believe. A crescent wrench will work also, in a pinch.
The top of the carrier, which is plastic, is held up by two bolts across the front area, and two bolts in the center, at the rear. The rear bolts also hold the bracket for the long adjustable bolt that holds the bottom of the carrier up.
Once the carrier and cover are off, you'll see two bolts that go thru the rear frame crossmember, and into the straps that hold the tank. Take these two bolts out completely. You'll prolly want to soak all of these fasteners with WD40(or equivalent) beforehand, to make it easier.
Once the straps are loose, the only thing holding the tank up is the crossmember that fits under the front edge of it.
Now would be the time to make sure the tank is empty...fuel is quite heavy!
You'll need to take the fuel hose off from the sender unit on the bottom of the tank, as well as the two electrical wires there. There are also hoses on the top of the tank, on both sides. On the driver side, you'll find the vapor separator...a black, plastic "box" with hoses on it. You'll need to remove the separator before dropping the tank. It bolts on to the tank with two 5/16" bolts, and has two hoses on it. One from the front of the car, and the other runs to the tank on the side there.
On the top pass side is the return line from the fuel pump.
You'll need to un-bolt a bracket that holds the fuel fill overflow hose, that comes from the rubber "pan" that is around the gas cap. The hose is normally attached by a bracket to the pass side bumper brace, but it could be anywhere in that general area.
You'll need to drop the mufflers down, too, on both sides.

Once all of that is done, you only have the four bolts that hold the crossmember in. This is where the fun starts. The bolts go from the bottom up, meaning the nuts are inside of the frame!
If you look, you'll see a hole in the frame that you can snake a wrench in, to get to the nuts. These will be 9/16"...or 1/2"...I can't remember...
Take only one of the bolts out on each side at a time. Then loosen the two remaining bolts carefully. The tank will drop as they come loose, unless you have something holding it up...I usually use my head...literally. I don't plan it that way...it just happens... If the tank is empty, it's not too heavy anyway, and the bruising is minimal.
The two straps are also attached to the crossmember, so you'll need to snake them out around it as it comes down. A little twisting, a little tilting, and out she comes.Adams' Apple2008-03-16 19:10:10

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

I CHANGED MINE LAST SUMMER, GET READY FOR A LOT OF!FIRST DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, REMOVE SPARE TIRE,NEXT IS TO REMOVE LONG BOLT THAT HOLDS UP THE TRAY,ONCE YOU REMOVE THE TWO NUTS THAT HOLD IT TO THE BACK SUPPORT WIGGLE IT AROUND SO THE PIN  FALLS THREW THE HOLE. YOUR TRAY WILL BE JUST SUPPORTED BY THE TWO BACK BOLTS, THEN REMOVE THE TWO BACK SCREWS THAT HOLD THE TOP COVER. I FORGOT TO MENTION,LIFT THE BACK END OF THE CAR WITH TWO STANDS BEFORE YOU START. WITH THE BACK END RAISED YOU CAN LEAVE THE BOTTOM TRAY HANGING.REMOVE WIRES CONNECTED TO SENDING UNIT, REMOVE THE TWO BOLTS ON THE BACK THAT HOLDS THE STRAPS, THE TANK WILL NOT DROP UNTILL YOU REMOVE THE TWO BOTS ON EITHER SIDE OF THE SUPPORT BAR JUST BEHIND THE REAR END. THIS IS WHEN YOU CALL YOUR BEST FRIEND OVER FOR SOME ASSISTANCE HAVE SOMEONE HOLD THE TANK WHILE YOU REMOVE THE SUPPORT AND THEN REMOVE THE TWO HOSES THE VENT/ FUEL LINE, I REPLACED BOTH HOSES AND NEW CLIPS. YOUR TANK IS REMOVEDI PURCHASED A NEW TANK SO I SPRAYED  THE EXTERIOR WITH SOME CLEAR RUST INHIBUTOR JUST FOR THE MOISTURE AND GOT MY SENDING UNIT REBUILT.THE FUN PART IS PUTTING THE NEW TANK IN, PUT IT IN ON AN ANGLE ON ONE CORNER AND IT SHOULD FIT IN,AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE BACK END HIGH ENOUGH ON STANDS FOR CLEARANCE, REPEAT THE STEPS AND HAVE SOMEONE THERE TO HELP YOU OUT. I DID THIS ON MY OWN AND THERE WAS ALOT OF . IT MIGHT LOOK DIFFICULT  BUT TURNED OUT EASY. LET ME KNOW HOW IT GOES.   JIMMY

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(click to see a larger image)

I have done this many times alone.........rather than using my head like Joel does.........I use my head differently. I use a Harbor Freight cheap ($59.00) transmission jack. It has a large area that will support the tank. If the car is highly raised, I use a 10x12x18" block of wood to get the extra height.........the jack tops out before I can get the tank high enough, without the extra timber.  Remember that fuel is close to water in weight. Water=8.33 lbs./gal.........so I assume gas would be in the range of 8 lbs./gal.  

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[QUOTE=Adams' Apple]Now would be the time to make sure the tank is empty...fuel is quite heavy!
[/QUOTE]

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I wanted a Corvette my whole life, but I never dreamed of all the wonderful people I would meet because of it!

I know theyre a bit different but I got some good close up pics of my tank mounted with the body off. Hope it helps! 

I dropped mine FULL with the help of a hydraulic jack.  I emptied it before I re-installed it, though.  I thought my fuel pump was bad, and I couldn't remove the sending unit through the hole in the rear deck.  After all the trouble, turns out it wasn't the fuel pump after all.  But now I have a new fuel pump.  Hmmm.