STUCK HOOD ON 1982:
Your problem is not uncommon. 30 year old cables are prone to snap, leaving the hood latched with no easy way to get to it.
If the drivers side of the hood is releasing but the passenger side is not it is probably the "crossover" cable that runs between the two latches that is broken. This is the cable that snakes over on top of your distributor. While standing beside of the car on the passenger side, reach under the back edge of the hood into the wiper trough. You should be able to feel a rubber "plug" in the front of the trough that protrudes into the engine compartment.
HERE is a photo of that plug taken from the engine compartment side. This plug can be pushed out of its hole into the engine compartment. You can the use a flat tool, perhaps a flat screwdriver that has been bent to poke through the hole and push DOWN on the latch to release it. Yes, this will be a fishing expedition, especially if you have never done this before but it will work.
HERE is a pic of the tool protruding through the firewall into the engine compartment and engaging the latch. You must push down on the bottom of the latch to release it.
THIS is a tool that I made to accomplish this job and it works "OK", but still requires quite a bit of fishing.
THIS photo will show the approximate location of the hole you will be shooting for in relation to the fender / hood line. The 82 has some pretty big "gill" slits when the grilles are removed but I just looked and dont think you would have enough room to get to the latch or cable if you removed them. If you have a vette buddy who has a late model C-3 looking at the latches from the inside will give you a clearer idea of what needs to be done.
This problem is so common that some of the corvette suppliers are now selling "emergency cables" that
just drop down to the bottom of the engine compartment where they can be
accessed by reaching underneath the car. I made my own emergency
cables out of some bicycle brake cable.
BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH:
I replaced my brake light switch last weekend and Im also a big guy who does not fit well under the dash. The easiest way to do this is NOT to remove the dash but to remove the drivers seat. The seat is secured to the floor of the car by 4 bolts which are welded onto the seat frame and pass through the floor. 4 simple nuts from under the car is all that is holding it in place. Once the nuts are off the seat can be lifted out once you unsnap the electrical connections for the seat belt buzzer and power seat if you have that. With the seat out you can get under the dash much easier. Removing the seat is the worst of the job. The park light switch is held in place on its bracket by a toothed spring gromet. When you first look at the switch you will think its screwed into the bracket but it is not.
HERE is a picture of an 82 brake light switch in place in the gromet. If you have cruise control there will be 2 connectors on the switch, if no cruise then there will only be one. Disconnect the connector then simply grab the big part of the switch and pull backward and the switch will pull right out of the gromet, it does not unscrew. Insert the new switch against the gromet and push it all the way forward. As the threaded portion of the switch slides into the gromet it will click as the teeth engage the threads, but push it all the way. To adjust the switch once its all the way in the gromet you simply grab the brake pedal and pull it back toward you until the switch stops clicking as it backs itself out of the gromet. Pull the pedal back toward you once more to make sure the switch stops clicking and its done.. re-attach the electrical, test to make sure the brake lights work then reinstall the seat. When you re-install the seat make sure the seat back is raised when you sit the seat into place, if installed with the seat folded it will not clear the steering wheel to open once bolted down.
The headlights Ill leave to someone else with more electrical experience, Im sure someone will chime in.
Crossfire19822010-07-22 16:57:15