Topic: hood weatherstrip
in Forum: C3 Body
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Hi Guys, I am trying to fix the problem with all the heat coming in to the cabin, have ordered a new heater control unit and will get the aircon fix as well.
I looked at the rubber strip on the hood and it is very hard, also it only goes down half way on the hood either side.
1- in cataldog it calls the strip a "hood ledge weatherstrip" is this the right one to order ?
2- should the rubber strip go all the way down to the guards ?
Regards
Andy
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Lifetime MemberDuncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20213
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
The rear hood weatherstrip only goes down the sides about 12" or so. It doesn't go all the way down the sides. The purpose is to keep the hot engine air from migrating into the vent system, where the wipers are. New weatherstrip there will definitely help, but it may also make it a little hard to close the hood completely for a while.
Another area to check is for any open holes in the firewall that will allow hot engine air to come thru to the cabin area. Look for any grommets that are out of place where the wiring, and the speedo cable go thru the firewall.
Shark era Corvettes are notorious for being hot inside...it's part of their charm(yeah...RIGHT!).
You may want to look into installing some type of heat barrier under the carpeting, too, as that seems to help as much as anything.
Adams' Apple 2009-11-17 06:00:55
Another area to check is for any open holes in the firewall that will allow hot engine air to come thru to the cabin area. Look for any grommets that are out of place where the wiring, and the speedo cable go thru the firewall.
Shark era Corvettes are notorious for being hot inside...it's part of their charm(yeah...RIGHT!).
You may want to look into installing some type of heat barrier under the carpeting, too, as that seems to help as much as anything.
Joel Adams
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Something else you might try is to see if your car has the "Front Tunnel Foam Heat Seal" in place. It's the foam collar that goes between the top of the transmission and the underside of the car. My 72 did not come with one, but I added one and it seems to make a difference. They way I see it is it directs the hot air coming from the engine compartment down under the car instead of it flowing through the tunnel. It's a $20.00 item. I think mine came from Eckler's.
Lonnie
Lifetime MemberEquinunk, PA - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2465
Vette(s): 1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.
Strange as it may seem, I had a HOT AIR cabin problem as well. I changed the water pump and thermastat, and it made a BIG difference. Used 165 and a new radiator cap.
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Oak Creek, WI - USA
Joined: 5/21/2008
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Vette(s): 1981 Great White Shark. Red Interior, 350/190 hp. PS, PB (SS), A/C CC, T-Tops. Served three years in Active Duty Army, then Retired Air Force after 34 years! Badger State Vettes Car Club. 175,000 Original miles!! Now own a 1998 C-5!
So thats why my feet are burning up in the summer time !! But it is comfy in the cool days of Autumn.
Dan
Heh Andy, good ta see ya back on da site mate.
So it's your summer time down under? Ya may want to search out some heater core shut off valve articles also.
Good luck and drive it like ya stole it brother! 
ebo 
eboAndy,
On my '79 I installed the shut off valves on my heater hoses just before where they enter/exit the heater core.
I'm happy with the results! A pretty easy job, even for a wanna be mechanic like me. 
Kevin
Thanks guys I will look under the carpet and check for the "Tunnell Foam", the MAIN source of the heat seems to only go directly on to my feet (very hot can not wear thongs, shoes only or they get burnt) and it feels like it is blowing in rather than radiating in
I have taken off the 2 heater hoses at the block, and connected 2 short pieces of hose with brass fittings to completly stop the water flow, the hoses from the heater are still the same length but not connected and left in place to be reconnected if I need to.
I am reading all the previous posts on the subject of this heat problem and will put in place the quick and easy fix first working up to the harder projects.
I also think that the heater control unit in the console is faulty (have ordered and will install when it arrives from Corvette central) and the vents are not closing properly.
Hey ebo I check the site nearly every day and read all your posts, always a good read and great info. I may not contribute much but look forward to see what is going, this has to be the BEST source of information on the net.
Regards
Andy
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Ellijay, GA - USA
Joined: 1/2/2007
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Vette(s): 1996 Collector Edition Coupe, LT4, 6 spd
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1974 Avanti w/Chevy 350 - 4L60 trans
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Hi all,
I have had a number of old C3s and the heater - A/C- Vent system is a subject of a lot of heat issues.
Pre 77 Corvettes had no heater shut off (full time hot water in the heater core) and will benefit from a manual heater shut off in the heater hose. The heater core is just blocked by a Flapper /plate to vent freash air into the car (vent and A/C mode) or thru the heater core for heat. The Flapper has foam seals that go bad thru the years and at best only minimizes the heat transfer. So having a manual shut off stops a lot of that heat from coming in. That gets rid of a couple of quarts of hot water just setting in you dash!
The later 77-82 vetts use a vacuum shut off that turns the water flow off when vacuum is applied and therefore it is open when the engine is shut off or vacuum is low. So a bad vacuum from the control valve, or from the AC control can also cause a lot of heat to come in when on vent or A/C setting. So if you are getting a lot of heat in the cabin then you need to check all that too. A manual valve in the hose can also solve that problem.
Need to check the flap control (manual cable hot-to-cold lever) and make sure it is closing all the way and also make sure the heater core is not getting hot water because of bad controls or stuck valves.
There is a lot to check to make sure it is all working right! But when the corvettes get 20+ years old, the rubber, valves, vacuum diaframs and such all get stiff, rusty, worn and need to be checked and/or replaced!
Good luck! Have fun!
Gary
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in Forum: C3 Body
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