you will have to pull the diff cover off to get the shaft yokes out. cthulhu2007-02-10 12:32:44

Thanks, cthulhu. I was afraid of that. The only thing is, I see that you have a '69, which has a different type diff than an '82. Do you 100% know that what you say applies to the newer design diff assemblies that are on '80-'82s? The only reason I'm questioning is that I have the GM service manual for my car, and the blowup drawing of the diff internals does not show a snap ring, C-clip (as on many other GM cars), or anything else that looks like an axle retainer.

i do not know for certain that it does, anyone with a late c3 that can clarify?

Ben is correct. Darryl812007-02-10 17:06:02

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GEN III 5.7L "LS6" Engine swap
TKO500 5 spd.

Well, thanks for the bad news! (Just kidding!) Seriously, thank's for the straight skinny. And now, since I know I gotta do what I gotta do, I also will install a lower ratio gearset while things are apart.

redvet

Will do. I won't be doing it any time soon, though. But when I'm through, I will post what happened.

The 'luminuminum diffs are much easier to remove than the earlier ones, but still not exactly a barrel of fun. By the time you got the batwing/cover off, you would only have a couple more items to remove to have the whole mess out, so it makes more sense to just remove it all to start with.
Once the diff is out, and the cover removed, changing the yoke seals involves removing the yoke snap-rings, then the yokes. The seals can then be replaced. Be sure to keep the yokes on the same side as they were removed from, as well as the snap-rings. The snap-rings are "selective", meaning there are several different thicknesses, to allow adjustment of the free-play of the yokes, which should be in the range of....none.(or VERY little)
Check the ends of the yokes for any sings of wear where they rub on the center pin of the diff. This is where they will wear, and the snap-ring falls off, as Ben mentioned.
It is best to measure the amount of play in the yokes before removing them. That will at least give you some indication of wear on the yokes, or the posi clutches. If either or both are worn, this would be the time to remedy the situation.

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Joel, thanks for the additional (and very important) details! I'll post all of the gory goings-on of how things went down when done. But be patient; I won't be getting to this until later this year.

I'll be doing a diff. O/H this week. I'll get some nasty, gory, bloody photos...

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Did these ever get done?

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Dave, I did post a link to some of the pics I took. I didn't upload all of them, tho, just a few to show some of the parts. I'll see what else I have when I get home later...until then, take a look at THESE

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Thanks

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First, it is far easier if you just bite the bullet and take the whole thing out.  Second, if there is any lateral movement on the side yokes, I would go ahead and replace them just because it is such a major PITA to get to them.  Locating new side yokes is also difficult because they are different than the earlier models.  Earlier models are also less expensive because there are more of them and they are all the same; yours has a left and a right side yoke that are different lengths.  I would also replace the front seal while you have it out; this one is very close to impossible to replace in the car unless you have 12" skinny fingers that can do torque and see.  RIK's Corvettes has a side yoke rebuild source and they do a good job. 

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Thanks Ken.

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