Topic: Converting stock points ignition to electronic
in Forum: Humor
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A good friend of mine has a '69 Cougar that he is in the process of converting the stock ignition system over to an electronic system. He has all the new parts in place but has bumped into a minor wiring problem.
The directions with the Xcel (sp?) setup say to replace the resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil. He hasn't figured out a good way to replace the wire coming out of the switch. He is wondering if it will cause problems to leave a few inches of the resistor wire coming out of the switch and patch into that with the new wire. He really doesn't want to invest in a new ignition switch unless he absolutely has to.
I know I'm probably not relaying this very well, but does anyone have some thoughts on how to do this last bit of wiring?
Thanks!
The directions with the Xcel (sp?) setup say to replace the resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil. He hasn't figured out a good way to replace the wire coming out of the switch. He is wondering if it will cause problems to leave a few inches of the resistor wire coming out of the switch and patch into that with the new wire. He really doesn't want to invest in a new ignition switch unless he absolutely has to.
I know I'm probably not relaying this very well, but does anyone have some thoughts on how to do this last bit of wiring?
Thanks!
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If i'm reading this correct you're talking about the ballast resistor. If that is the case the reason it tells you to replace it is that it SHOULD no longer be required. If this is the case, no new wire is needed, just bypass the ballast resistor and he should be fine. Had that question on my old trans am. It wouldn't start until I bypassed the ballast resistor.


|IMG|http://www.C3VR.com/member_uploads/3701_3800/3714/duskbgoddesssmall.jpg|/IMG| |B|Semper Fidelis! |/B|
He can just release the clip, and pull the wire out of the ingnition switch plug, install a new connector to a new wire, and reinstall it. Run the new wire next to the harness, and splice in past the end of the resistor, or at the bulkhead connector.
He could also splice the ign wire to the coil start (bypass wire), and that would supply everything he needs.
He could also splice the ign wire to the coil start (bypass wire), and that would supply everything he needs.
Thanks for the feedback guys!
Matt, when reading back your reply to my friend he said that there was no ballast in the loop. According to him the wire itself from the switch to the coil 'is the resistor'. Evidently that was the way things were designed by the blue oval gang back in the late 60s.
Ken, the first part of your reply prompted another question from my friend - how do you release the clip? I haven't seen the back of the ignition switch so can't describe it to you at all. Any tricks up your sleeve on getting the clip to release? I guess it is a tiny place where that lead goes into the switch.
Thanks again...!!!
_________________________________

Jim O.
Save the Wave...!!!
Matt, when reading back your reply to my friend he said that there was no ballast in the loop. According to him the wire itself from the switch to the coil 'is the resistor'. Evidently that was the way things were designed by the blue oval gang back in the late 60s.
Ken, the first part of your reply prompted another question from my friend - how do you release the clip? I haven't seen the back of the ignition switch so can't describe it to you at all. Any tricks up your sleeve on getting the clip to release? I guess it is a tiny place where that lead goes into the switch.
Thanks again...!!!
_________________________________

Jim O.
Save the Wave...!!!

As long as he doesn't leave much of the wire it should cause no problem. The only type of "resistor wire" i've ever seen had a resistance of 100 Ohms per foot.
However, it wasn't for a car. This isn't much resistance and I would have to question whether the wire is all that is adding resistance to the circuit. However, if that is the case, leaving 2 or 3 inches of wire and then splicing in would only add about 20 - 25 ohms. This is hardly enough to effect the circuit. You add more resistance than that with having a corroded connector.
Before he does this, check the length of the wire. If there is a bulge somewhere along the length it mostly has a resistor wired into it, something like a fuseable link. Hope this helps somewhat.
However, it wasn't for a car. This isn't much resistance and I would have to question whether the wire is all that is adding resistance to the circuit. However, if that is the case, leaving 2 or 3 inches of wire and then splicing in would only add about 20 - 25 ohms. This is hardly enough to effect the circuit. You add more resistance than that with having a corroded connector.
Before he does this, check the length of the wire. If there is a bulge somewhere along the length it mostly has a resistor wired into it, something like a fuseable link. Hope this helps somewhat.
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The wire itself is the resistor. There is no ballast.
And while it's true a very short piece does not make much difference, it does make some, and I would rather see it replaced. You probably won't notice a difference.
To release the pin from the holder, look inside the holder at the pin itself. There is a tiny tab that must be depressed to release the pin. Push the pin in as far as it will go to relieve pressure on the pin. Insert a very small pick or stiff wire to release the pin. You ususally need to go in from the front, but sometimes you need to release a plastic tab from the back. Then just slide the pin out of the back. There are special tools to do this, but it can be done without them. New pins are available at any GM dealer, and some part houses. Other supplier have them as well. I get to cheat. I step to the next class and ask the GM ASEP instructor for a new one. You may be able to reuse the origianl pin and attach you new wire to it, but it's not easy. I have done so in the past.
And while it's true a very short piece does not make much difference, it does make some, and I would rather see it replaced. You probably won't notice a difference.
To release the pin from the holder, look inside the holder at the pin itself. There is a tiny tab that must be depressed to release the pin. Push the pin in as far as it will go to relieve pressure on the pin. Insert a very small pick or stiff wire to release the pin. You ususally need to go in from the front, but sometimes you need to release a plastic tab from the back. Then just slide the pin out of the back. There are special tools to do this, but it can be done without them. New pins are available at any GM dealer, and some part houses. Other supplier have them as well. I get to cheat. I step to the next class and ask the GM ASEP instructor for a new one. You may be able to reuse the origianl pin and attach you new wire to it, but it's not easy. I have done so in the past.
in Forum: Humor
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