Topic: Non Vette Help
in Forum: Humor
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I was wondering if someone could give some suggestions on my '97 F-150 daily driver that continues to die. A couple nights ago while driving home all my electronics and lights began to die. I figured this would be an alternator problem, especially since it had been whining and was packed with mud for almost a year now. So I replaced it, recharged my battery and it was running fine for a while until I turned the lights on, then it began to die slowly, then quicker and quicker towards the end and was dead again in about 15-20 minutes. I got the alternator and battery tested. The alternator was a positive yes its fine, the battery was an "umm, i think its ok." I'm starting to think its not. Its the original battery as far as I know, about six years old. Could it have a dead cell that would make it start when fully charged, but die while running because the alternator can't maintain it at the rate its losing its charge? Also, what brand batteries do you guys recommend.
1977 Corvette EX-L48
383 Stroker, Holley MPFI, MSD Ignition, BTO 700R4, VBP Street/Slalom, Hooker Sidepipes with JCL Spiral Baffles, Corbeau A4s w/ Shark Bar and Simpson 5-Points, 17" AR TTII's, Kumho MX's
(click to see a bigger version)
383 Stroker, Holley MPFI, MSD Ignition, BTO 700R4, VBP Street/Slalom, Hooker Sidepipes with JCL Spiral Baffles, Corbeau A4s w/ Shark Bar and Simpson 5-Points, 17" AR TTII's, Kumho MX's

(click to see a bigger version)
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Im don't think it is your battery, especially if it dies while running. the battery just starts it, the alternator keeps it running. Don't really know fords too well, sorry. Has it had a recent tune-up? Might be some sort of voltage regulator problem, which I believe is in the alternator.
I run Sears Die Hards in my daily drivers. Never had a problem, matter of fact, just put one i the vette too
I run Sears Die Hards in my daily drivers. Never had a problem, matter of fact, just put one i the vette too

Thanks, I didn't think it was the battery either. The voltage regulator is built into the alternator and that tested ok. So that leaves me with................... don't know!!! I heard maybe a fuse or the starter relay.
1977 Corvette EX-L48
383 Stroker, Holley MPFI, MSD Ignition, BTO 700R4, VBP Street/Slalom, Hooker Sidepipes with JCL Spiral Baffles, Corbeau A4s w/ Shark Bar and Simpson 5-Points, 17" AR TTII's, Kumho MX's
(click to see a bigger version)
383 Stroker, Holley MPFI, MSD Ignition, BTO 700R4, VBP Street/Slalom, Hooker Sidepipes with JCL Spiral Baffles, Corbeau A4s w/ Shark Bar and Simpson 5-Points, 17" AR TTII's, Kumho MX's

(click to see a bigger version)
If the strater relay or soleniod was bad, it wouldn't start or you would have a clicking sound when you tried to start it. You have me stumped on this too. Does it have an idle soleniod or something like that on it? We had a problem with our work cars doing this too but I don't remember what it was exactly. I can try and find out though. BTW they were Fords too
I heard there may a fusible link that blew, so I'm gonna check that out. I don't know too much about a starter relay except for the fact that its a $5 part from the dealer so I may pick one up anyway. Not to sure about an idle solenoid either. Its been three days now and I have a feeling that it is something really stupid after I already replaced the alternator.
|UPDATED|5/30/2002 2:23:20 PM|/UPDATED|
|UPDATED|5/30/2002 2:23:20 PM|/UPDATED|
1977 Corvette EX-L48
383 Stroker, Holley MPFI, MSD Ignition, BTO 700R4, VBP Street/Slalom, Hooker Sidepipes with JCL Spiral Baffles, Corbeau A4s w/ Shark Bar and Simpson 5-Points, 17" AR TTII's, Kumho MX's
(click to see a bigger version)
383 Stroker, Holley MPFI, MSD Ignition, BTO 700R4, VBP Street/Slalom, Hooker Sidepipes with JCL Spiral Baffles, Corbeau A4s w/ Shark Bar and Simpson 5-Points, 17" AR TTII's, Kumho MX's

(click to see a bigger version)
This may sound weird, but is your intake manifold cast or that Hi-impact plastic? Our cars at work got hairline cracks in the intakes( Plastic) and they ran like sh&&. Took the to Ford dealer and that was the problem. just a thought.
Good luck
Good luck

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DOWNINGTOWN, PA - USA
Joined: 11/24/2001
Posts: 962
Vette(s): 1969 Monza Red Black Conv / Black Vinal hardtop
454/480 Tremec 5 Speed 308 Posi.Black Leather Interior, PS, PW, Air cond., tilt/tele,AM/FM Cass.-5 Pack CD, Hurst Shifter, side pipes
2004 Yellow convertible with black top and black interior
This is most likely a dumb suggestion but when all else fails, look for the stupid stuff. Are you SURE your alternator belt is tight enough and is not slipping. What you describe sounds like you are just not getting enough juice from the alternator to charge the battery. Do you have an ammeter as part of you gauge package? Does it show that it is always charging or does it stop charging and rest pretty much on zero after about 5 minutes or so of driving? You could also have a "high resistance" short somewhere on the "hot" side of your wiring which is slowly draining your battery.
Check your fuses and fuseable links. I have a '93 Explorer in the family fleet and went through most of what you have with your pickup. After installing what was "guaranteed" to be a good altenator (for the third time) I gave up and took it to a Ford dealer. $75 later I was told it was a blown 15 amp fuse (that they charged me $5 for!) for the charging system in the power block under the hood.

Jim O.



Jim O.
I've checked the fuses and everthing seems to be fine. I was told last night that the battery may not be holding a charge and the alternator can't maintain it at the rate its losing charge. It is the original battery, about 6 years old now. I was told that it may have passed the test because I don't think they tested it with a load. I'm getting a new battery today and if that doesn't do it then I guess its off to the shop. I hate working on new cars for this reason, they don't make 'em like they used to.
1977 Corvette EX-L48
383 Stroker, Holley MPFI, MSD Ignition, BTO 700R4, VBP Street/Slalom, Hooker Sidepipes with JCL Spiral Baffles, Corbeau A4s w/ Shark Bar and Simpson 5-Points, 17" AR TTII's, Kumho MX's
(click to see a bigger version)
383 Stroker, Holley MPFI, MSD Ignition, BTO 700R4, VBP Street/Slalom, Hooker Sidepipes with JCL Spiral Baffles, Corbeau A4s w/ Shark Bar and Simpson 5-Points, 17" AR TTII's, Kumho MX's

(click to see a bigger version)
Former Member
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moro, IL - USA
Joined: 2/11/2002
Posts: 406
Vette(s): 1979 Black coupe. 11256 original, documented, miles on it when I bought it in April of 2000. It now has 13100 on it. Oyster interior, like new. Everything original, everything works, except the clock. Paint has a couple of minor flaws.
Dale,
Go down to the nearest Wal-mart, and get one of their batteries. I have heard that Exide builds them. Not sure.. I bought one for my old 92 Blazer, and it lasted 4or 5 years before it croaked. They are only about $45. They've got several different models at different prices. One thing about it, There are Wal-marts everywhere. so the warrenty will be good almost anywhere.
|QUOTE|VTHokie77Vette said: I was wondering if someone could give some suggestions on my '97 F-150 daily driver that continues to die. A couple nights ago while driving home all my electronics and lights began to die. I figured this would be an alternator problem, especially since it had been whining and was packed with mud for almost a year now. So I replaced it, recharged my battery and it was running fine for a while until I turned the lights on, then it began to die slowly, then quicker and quicker towards the end and was dead again in about 15-20 minutes. I got the alternator and battery tested. The alternator was a positive yes its fine, the battery was an "umm, i think its ok." I'm starting to think its not. Its the original battery as far as I know, about six years old. Could it have a dead cell that would make it start when fully charged, but die while running because the alternator can't maintain it at the rate its losing its charge? Also, what brand batteries do you guys recommend.|/QUOTE|
Go down to the nearest Wal-mart, and get one of their batteries. I have heard that Exide builds them. Not sure.. I bought one for my old 92 Blazer, and it lasted 4or 5 years before it croaked. They are only about $45. They've got several different models at different prices. One thing about it, There are Wal-marts everywhere. so the warrenty will be good almost anywhere.
|QUOTE|VTHokie77Vette said: I was wondering if someone could give some suggestions on my '97 F-150 daily driver that continues to die. A couple nights ago while driving home all my electronics and lights began to die. I figured this would be an alternator problem, especially since it had been whining and was packed with mud for almost a year now. So I replaced it, recharged my battery and it was running fine for a while until I turned the lights on, then it began to die slowly, then quicker and quicker towards the end and was dead again in about 15-20 minutes. I got the alternator and battery tested. The alternator was a positive yes its fine, the battery was an "umm, i think its ok." I'm starting to think its not. Its the original battery as far as I know, about six years old. Could it have a dead cell that would make it start when fully charged, but die while running because the alternator can't maintain it at the rate its losing its charge? Also, what brand batteries do you guys recommend.|/QUOTE|
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in Forum: Humor
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