Topic: MAP Sensor and High IdelMAP Sensor and High Idle
in Forum: C3 Fuel, Emission Control, and Exhaust Systems

I finally got my 82CE crossfire to run at 700 rpm. To do that I have to cap the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor. Put the hose back on and it runs at 1200 rpm.
Thanks to all of you that have helped me this appears to be
the last of many vacuum leaks.
Question is do you just replace this or can you sometimes take it apart and repair it.
I think thats one of those replace parts. If my memory serves correctly, mine was somewhere around $45.00 at the local parts store. Mine looked like it was sealed with internals inaccessible.

Little more information on the problem. I purchased a new MAP sensor and installed it. Idle shot up to 1200 and stayed there. Disconnected the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor and plugged it. Idle down to 700. So there is more to this than a bad sensor.

In my experience, bad MAP sensors normally will keep the engine from starting, or it will start, but not continue to run.
Have you gaged the actual vacuum at the sensor? How much vac. is it getting?
Joel Adams
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Tells the ECM what kind of load the engine is under, as well as barometric pressure(on some sensors). This enables the ECM to alter the fuel/ignition curves for best emissions, and power output.
When it no longer works, that's when it should be replaced...(hey...you axed for it!

There are a couple of methods of testing the MAP sensors...it does involve a vacuum pump, and a multi-meter capable of reading Hertz data. I can prolly dig out the troubleshooting tree, if ya want, but...if you have the factory service manual, the info will be in there.

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Just when out in the rain (yes it does rain in SO Cal) and
checked the vacuum . I get about 13- 14
inches take from where the MAP sensor gets it’s vacuum.
Dodged a bullet. I did not wipe my shoes when I ran in to finish this email and muddy foot prints on my wife carpet. She is gone I just spent the last half hour cleaning the spots I think I will get away with being stupid this time.
Back to the problem idle is between 1000 and 1100 rpm in neutral. Ran the car up and down the street just to see what would happen at the stop sign it once it idled down to 700 rpm. After that four or five stops it did not get below 1000 rpm.
All I know about the MAP sensor is what I read so far and
that is it compares the local atmospheric pressure against what the engine is
doing and send a signal to the computer to control the idle.
I know the computer takes a few other inputs but I do not know what or how these all come together.
If I cap the vacuum feed on the injector and that make the MAP sensor read the vacuum being the same as the atmosphere the car will idle down to 700 - 800 rpm



That is entirely a possibility...which is one reason we really need to pull codes on it, and look at the data stream.

You really need to have a scanner hooked up, to check for codes...throwing parts at it ain't gonna work too well. At least, it never does for me.

If you have a auto repair shop that you are friendly with, have them put a scanner on it, and see what codes it may have. That will give us a direction to go with on the diagnosis. Of course, if you've been running it with the MAP disconnected, it will obviously have a MAP code. Hook the vac. back up, and drive it before scanning, and don't turn the key off before scanning. If you turn the key off, it will loose whatever code(s) it has.
An out of spec coolant temp can absolutely cause the high idle speed ... as well as a few other things
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"