Topic: Normal Temp 200 Degrees
in Forum: C3 Cooling and Heating Systems
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I had my 383 rebuilt and installed it a few months ago. Currently have approximately 300 miles on the new motor, The temperature seems to run high; it's normally a little under 200 degrees on the freeway.
Part of the process of trying to define the issue, I insatalled at 165 degree thermostat and also a new temperature sender. The temp still runs around 200 on the freeway and quickly goes higher in stop and go traffic.
The only other change I made from before was the addition of Hooker long tube headers.
Before the old 383 run at OK tempeartures in this vehicle.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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200 is not too high a running temp. Changing the thermostat will not affect the running temp. it only regulates at what temp. it allows the coolant to flow out of the block into the radiator. I think 165 is too low, but that's my 2 cents.
Dave
Lifetime Member #116
Dave's '82
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Frederick, MD - USA
Joined: 9/8/2003
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Vette(s): 1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior
A couple of things...more power equals more heat. It could simply be a by-product of the stronger engine.
Is the air deflector in place under the front end and are the seals around the radiator in place? They all have a lot to do with keeping air going through the radiator core rather than going under or around it. The radiator core could need the fins cleaned.
200 degrees on the freeway is not something to worry about...if all C3's ran at that temp on the road there would be lots more smiling owners.
How high does it run when in stop and go traffic? It may not be a problem. Does it increase and level off or continue to increase?
I would take the thermostat and drill a 1/8" hole on ether side of the sensor it to allow more coolant flow. There are also thermostats available with that already done as well as fail-safe thermostats...if they fail, they're designed to fail in the open position.
You might also try adding a bottle of Water Wetter to the cooling system...it coats the interior surfaces of the cooling system and allows smoother flow and heat transfer.

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What gauge are yo using to determine the operating temp? The factory gauges aren't really all that reliable to start with, and the sending units can be off, also.
I'm also gonna agree with others...200 is NOT too high of an operating temp. 220, in traffic, with the A/C on, would be "normal", imo.
Radiator/shroud seals, front air dam, and a good working fan need to be confirmed. Also, any new engine will run a bit hotter than "normal" due to the tightness of everything. It should loosen up somewhat by around 1000 miles, and eliminate that extra heat.
My question would still be, are you sure the coolant temp is correct?
I'm also gonna agree with others...200 is NOT too high of an operating temp. 220, in traffic, with the A/C on, would be "normal", imo.
Radiator/shroud seals, front air dam, and a good working fan need to be confirmed. Also, any new engine will run a bit hotter than "normal" due to the tightness of everything. It should loosen up somewhat by around 1000 miles, and eliminate that extra heat.
My question would still be, are you sure the coolant temp is correct?
Joel Adams
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Lemon Grove, CA - USA
Joined: 10/17/2007
Posts: 2041
Vette(s): 1982 C3 Collectors Edition 44000 miles, sat in the sun most of its life, My wife purchased it for me for Father's Day in 2007 from her girlfriend that had it for 19 years. It is on the road again. I'm retired but it is now my daily driver.
The 82 comes with electric fan system (do not know if other C2 come that way) but the electric fan is not suppose to come on until the Block (i assume that is going to close to the water temp) reaches around 240. Just for a point of reference on what GM thought about heat. I would also assume that 240 would be approaching the hot site but not critical to engine safety or they would want a margin of error. Just my assumptions based on what the book calls out. By the way my C2 stays around 195 - 200 on the road.
I run a 180 degree thermo in mine & put "HyperLube" (same type product as "wetter"). Since using the HyperLube in the cooling system, temp dropped about 15 degrees. I run consistantly around 190 (even during 4th of July parade in Philly)

OK thanks for all the feedback. I'm not worried about the 200 on freeway. In stop and go it climbs fast and gets awful hot inside the car. The gauge I have is the stock one. I've ordered an new one that will be more accurate and then I'll have better data.
The sending unit is a brand new one from Lectric Ltd.; no change in the readings.
I also ordered a fan shroud extension; maybe that will help some.
I'll also try the solution to see if that reduces the temperature.
I see that in 1982 or thereabouts they had a 'trap door' on the main shroud and also added an electric fan to the cooling system. Has anyone added the electric fan to earlier models?

Lemon Grove, CA - USA
Joined: 10/17/2007
Posts: 2041
Vette(s): 1982 C3 Collectors Edition 44000 miles, sat in the sun most of its life, My wife purchased it for me for Father's Day in 2007 from her girlfriend that had it for 19 years. It is on the road again. I'm retired but it is now my daily driver.
I have an 82 and the electric fan is connected to the engine temp sensor on the block it is set to come on at 240 degrees. It does not work off the water temperature sensor.
The car did come from Texas and the electric fan was rewired to run all the time for what that is worth. If you install it you may want to put a switch in under the dash or something to control when it come on so it does not run all of the time. The person that had the car before me was from San Diego and had the fan disconnected but did not have it reconnected back up. I found a wire and traced it to the engine temp switch and found that it was suppose to drive the fan.
The best thing I did was when I changed radiators I had them add a larger core. Big blessing and all I did is change from a two core to a three core radiator. The top and bottom radiator tanks are big enough to take the addition core without trouble. If heat is an issue you may consider doing that it will add close to 30% to your cooling capability.
The inside temp in my car goes up when stopped but that is from the engine heat coming through the firewall. The actual engine temperature does not change much. this may not be the answer you are looking for but maybe it helps.
The car did come from Texas and the electric fan was rewired to run all the time for what that is worth. If you install it you may want to put a switch in under the dash or something to control when it come on so it does not run all of the time. The person that had the car before me was from San Diego and had the fan disconnected but did not have it reconnected back up. I found a wire and traced it to the engine temp switch and found that it was suppose to drive the fan.
The best thing I did was when I changed radiators I had them add a larger core. Big blessing and all I did is change from a two core to a three core radiator. The top and bottom radiator tanks are big enough to take the addition core without trouble. If heat is an issue you may consider doing that it will add close to 30% to your cooling capability.
The inside temp in my car goes up when stopped but that is from the engine heat coming through the firewall. The actual engine temperature does not change much. this may not be the answer you are looking for but maybe it helps.
If you have electric fans and have a manual switch and have A/C in your car, you need to have the fans on when the A/C is on to draw air over the condenser, important at lower speeds.
Just a heads up.
Dave
Lifetime Member #116
Dave's '82
in Forum: C3 Cooling and Heating Systems
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