Topic: I gotta stop it
in Forum: Off Topic
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I have a Chevy Impala that has worn its shoes to threadbare and it's time to "do it".
Chevy dealer wants to help me out and do the job for 400 dollars
that was a good one. I can do high quality pads and rotor machining for $150 .
that was a good one. I can do high quality pads and rotor machining for $150 .#1 wife says, "Gee honey, if you do the job yerself that'll leave $250 to spend on yer Vette...........ya think!!
Down through the years I have put brakes on a lot of my cars but never on an abs /w traction control and I have been told it is the same as any other car except I need to open the bleeders when I compress the pistons to eliminate excessive preasure on the abs system ????? Sounds good but "maybe"
Somebody please fill me in so I don't have to buy a manual to make sure I know what im doing...."sorta"
Thanks....Rich
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Lifetime MemberGreensburg, IN - USA
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Doesn't make sense to me Rich. Can't be any worse than stompin the gee wiz on the brakes while slidin across the frozen tundra approachin a stop sign a mach 8 speed here in Indiana.
I can't see that you could apply similar or worse pressure while compressing the piston.
I'd go for it. Heck you may want ta bleed em off anyway so what would it hurt to open them a tad bit to start with?
I can't see that you could apply similar or worse pressure while compressing the piston.
I'd go for it. Heck you may want ta bleed em off anyway so what would it hurt to open them a tad bit to start with?
[QUOTE=jayare]
mkapp7879 2008-01-06 18:04:34
Down through the years I have put brakes on a lot of my cars but never on an abs /w traction control and I have been told it is the same as any other car except I need to open the bleeders when I compress the pistons to eliminate excessive preasure on the abs system ????? Sounds good but "maybe"
[/QUOTE]
That's how I've done mama's Malibu, fronts, three times now(140K miles). Put one of those vicegrip style "C" clamps on the piston and cracked the bleeder open. Compressed the piston nicely, closed the bleeder as it retracted. Since you need to replace the rotors you'll need to remove the calipers. 2 very tight special bolts, easy to strip the heads. Otherwise I think it's 1 bolt and the caliper separates from itself and swings up to allow replacement of the pads. Think my Canadian Bendix rotors were about $50 each. Only had to replace them the first time cause the OEM rotors were warped(because they must have gotton wet according to the GM service manager when I tried to get them replaced under warranty!).
edit: Hmm, is it Bendix or Raybestos that's Canadian? Anyway, the rotors that served me very well for 100K miles are Canadien, eh.
Lifetime MemberGreensburg, IN - USA
Joined: 9/24/2003
Posts: 5189
Vette(s): Previous: 1984 Coupe, 1988 Maroon Coupe, 1989 Coupe, 2001 Roadster Present: 1967 Stingray Roadster, 1976 Stingray Coupe, 1989 Roadster..
[QUOTE=mkapp7879] [QUOTE=jayare]
Isn't that just a crock of crap! These things are open to the elements are gonna (guess what) get wet. If anybody ever thought that the brakes were never going to get hot then not ever get doused with water then I have to say that is a design flaw!Tuxblacray 2008-01-04 20:26:34
Down through the years I have put brakes on a lot of my cars but never on an abs /w traction control and I have been told it is the same as any other car except I need to open the bleeders when I compress the pistons to eliminate excessive preasure on the abs system ????? Sounds good but "maybe"
[/QUOTE]
That's how I've done mama's Malibu, fronts, three times now(140K miles). Put one of those vicegrip style "C" clamps on the piston and cracked the bleeder open. Compressed the piston nicely, closed the bleeder as it retracted. Since you need to replace the rotors you'll need to remove the calipers. 2 very tight special bolts, easy to strip the heads. Otherwise I think it's 1 bolt and the caliper separates from itself and swings up to allow replacement of the pads. Think my Canadian Bendix rotors were about $50 each. Only had to replace them the first time cause the OEM rotors were warpedbecause they must have gotton wet according to the GM service manager when I tried to get them replaced under warranty!).
[/QUOTE]
Isn't that just a crock of crap! These things are open to the elements are gonna (guess what) get wet. If anybody ever thought that the brakes were never going to get hot then not ever get doused with water then I have to say that is a design flaw!
That's what I said. 14K miles at the time. They turned them and charged me $90. Of course, I couldn't turn them again when they warped again so I had to replace them when I changed the pads. Haven't turned the Bendix ones in 100K miles. Next pad change I'll replace them, just less bother than turning em. One is slightly scored now, anyway. Let it go a little too long
.
mkapp7879 2008-01-04 20:44:06
.
Interesting note, the rear DRUMS still look new, about 80% left.
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Rich, the purpose of opening the bleeder when retracting the pistons is to keep from back-flushing any crap back into the ABS module, which can cause the valves to stick/hang. Just put a section of rubber/vacuum hose on the bleeder, and stick the other end of the hose in a small container to catch the fluid when you open the bleeder to push the piston in. Once you finish re-installing the rotors and changing the pads, be sure to top off the master cylinder before pushing the brake pedal the first time. 
All manufacturers are using rotors that are basically "refinish/turn once, then discard". Saves them money when they build the cars. Also saves weight, so the cars get better mileage. Since the rotors are so thin to start with, they tend to warp easily....
All manufacturers are using rotors that are basically "refinish/turn once, then discard". Saves them money when they build the cars. Also saves weight, so the cars get better mileage. Since the rotors are so thin to start with, they tend to warp easily....
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Thanks everyone for the comments.
Joel, I know you are a technician and after I re-read my post I certainly did not mean to imply that the guys in the repair bays don't desearve their money...on the contrary, good auto techs are worth their weight in gold.
I ran onto a smug kid just off the tractor that shot me a $400 price with a smirk on his face.
I felt $175-200 an hour was a bit much and like everybody, i'm sure you've had experiences with these idiot joints called dealerships.
Seems like it's real hard finding a "good" technician working in a new car dealership. They always seem to collect the goobers.
Pushing the piston back is sort of a moot point as i'm going to push new fluid through the system so i might as well open the bleeders and go at it. I was reading somewhere that this should be done every 2-3 years anyhow to rid moisture from the system.
Soooo, I'm a smart boy. It shouldn't take me more that a couple of weeks to complete a 2 hour job....right
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[QUOTE=jayare]
I ran onto a smug kid just off the tractor that shot me a $400 price with a smirk on his face.
I felt $175-200 an hour was a bit much and like everybody, i'm sure you've had experiences with these idiot joints called dealerships.
Seems like it's real hard finding a "good" technician working in a new car dealership. They always seem to collect the goobers.
[/QUOTE]
Business is business and it's your money. I avoid car delearship service shops like the plague but thats just me and unless I have to go there to comply with the manufacturers warranty, I don't go. Good mechanics are far and few but they are out there, it's just a frustrating process of finding a good place with quality people that stick around for any length of time.
I've experienced a lot of places that will just throw new parts at the problem rather than taking the time to figure out what's wrong. I figure I can do that on my own with the same results so why pay someone else to do it.
If they are gonna take the time to do it right then I got no problem paying them for their time.
If they are gonna take the time to do it right then I got no problem paying them for their time. 
The biggest load of crap is the rotor issue. If you torque the lug nuts, and the calipers are working properly, the rotors WON"T warp. Sticking and uneven loading of the calipers, and/or improper lug torque will do it every time. I could go into chapters on research and testing, by others and myself.
kstyer 2008-01-05 21:00:10
Guess how many rotors warped on my cars and my brake jobs when no one else removed and retightened the wheels over the last 20 to 25 years. Grand total of ZERO! Not one warp comeback. Speaks for itself.
Follow all of Joel's advice, and be sure you torque the lug nuts. The reason the older thicker rotors did not warp as much as the new ones is the opposite of easy warping now. The large thick mass of metal was stronger, and thus resisted the warpage better with the uneven loads.
As far as the ABS, the only additional caution is to make sure the key is off, and pump the brake pedal many times until it is stiff, then pump it a few more times. Some systems have a residual pressure chamber, and pumping the pedal relieves the pressure making it a bit safer.
After than just make sure you don't damage the sensor or sensor reluctor rings. Some are built into the wheel bearing hubs, and you can't hurt them.
Some shops are quite high in price. But remember, you are paying for a master tech (hopefully) the cost of the shop supplies ie. cleaners, rags, uniforms, floor soap, etc, the cost of the guy on the desk, lights, utilities etc. Include the benifits for the employees, not just the desk guy and tech, but clean up folks, office help, porters etc. And they still make a profit or they are out of business.
Having said all that is it too expensive? Heck yes it is, when you can do it yourself or have it done by someone who is good and has less overhead.
Remember anytime you deal with anyone selling thing you each have a job. Their job is to do the work or supply a product, and take your money. Your job is to get the work done or get the product and keep as much of your money as possible.
Is anyone or any product any different?
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