Topic: I gotta stop it
in Forum: Off Topic
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I had to replace all 4 rotors on my 02 GMC 2500 HD at 40k. RUST. The guy said he couldn't turn em down, too much rust. I looked at them and it was thick scales of rust working in from the outer edge. Like an old car frame. Hit it with a hammer and it flaked off.
Then the front wheel bearings starting going and were messing up the ABS. A little chatter every time I stopped.
Quality GM parts they us today.
Jeffm 2008-01-06 12:00:04
Then the front wheel bearings starting going and were messing up the ABS. A little chatter every time I stopped.
Quality GM parts they us today.

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I do not know anything abot fixing anything, do not claim to and not ashamed either, i am one of those people that for the time being pay to have things done, the reason for this post is to praise all of you that have the mass of knowledge you have i am just in awe reading the techo post and the advise givin with pure confidence and detail, thank you all and it gives me hope to know that i can try anything and you all are here to help figure out just what the hell i did wrong. love this place and hats off to all you wrench heads.

Greensburg, IN - USA
Joined: 9/24/2003
Posts: 5189
Vette(s): Previous: 1984 Coupe, 1988 Maroon Coupe, 1989 Coupe, 2001 Roadster Present: 1967 Stingray Roadster, 1976 Stingray Coupe, 1989 Roadster..
Just curious on what the take is on turning the rotors here?
I never turn them unless they are warped. It has been suggested to me numerious times when I had glazed or grooved rotors "Man you should have those things turned".
My reply was why would I want to take a perfectly good thick rotor and cut the life out of it. Unless the pads squeel or might have trouble settling in I can't see a benefit to it.
I have put new pads on some deeply grooved off road rotors and they braked just fine and lived as long as I believe they would have had the rotors been turned.
I can't see the need to make an unecessary donation to the auto industry unless I am going to reap a benefit in there someplace.
Okay I'm open game now... Let the flaming begin......
I never turn them unless they are warped. It has been suggested to me numerious times when I had glazed or grooved rotors "Man you should have those things turned".
My reply was why would I want to take a perfectly good thick rotor and cut the life out of it. Unless the pads squeel or might have trouble settling in I can't see a benefit to it.
I have put new pads on some deeply grooved off road rotors and they braked just fine and lived as long as I believe they would have had the rotors been turned.
I can't see the need to make an unecessary donation to the auto industry unless I am going to reap a benefit in there someplace.
Okay I'm open game now... Let the flaming begin......
No heat from here Tux, Point well taken. I have done it both ways and I could never tell the difference either.
I have to be a perfectionist in my job and it just carries over into my leisure time. The rotors on this Impala are so easy to get off i'm going to have the parts house slightly turn them. They are slightly scored so IMO they don't need ground deep. My parts house puts a nice swirl finish on them.
Once I get the calipers out of the way the rotors just about fall off. Ten bucks each to turn-em (lightly)......oh why not. The car has 130 thousand on it and this is going to be done for the next guy as well as a little for myself.Its got to pass inspection Feb 1st soooo !!
Ken was right...those caliper bolts are tight. They would not come loose even with a breaker-bar. Gotta borrow a friends impact wrench tomorrow and give that a try.
Like I said in my post above I had a slightly scored rotor the last time I changed pads on wife's Malibu. I don't detect any difference in braking. I'm sure it will wear the pads a little quicker as the pad will take on the profile of the rotor.
Over the years I've thrown brakes on many a beater to get a little more use out of it. Left the rotors as is.
My work van, both front rotors and rear drums are scored up. New shoes and pads. Don't notice and difference in braking. Probably replace the whole van shortly, tho. Rear drums are big bucks on the big Dodge.
I WILL replace the rotors next time I do wife's Malibu.
[QUOTE=jayare]
Ken was right...those caliper bolts are tight. They would not come loose even with a breaker-bar. Gotta borrow a friends impact wrench tomorrow and give that a try.
[/QUOTE]
Rich, those bolts are like $15 each if ya tear em up! Ask me how I know


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Duncanville, TX - USA
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Ya gotta learn a few new cuss-werds, Rich!
What year model car is this, anyway? I've never really run into one that I couldn't get the caliper bolts out of fairly easily... Are you trying to take the caliper mount/bracket off, or just the calipers from the mount? Not sure what type set-up your car has.
You will find, once you do get the bolts out, that they have "Lock-Tite" on the threads, and that can make removal pretty tough, at times. Have you sprayed the area with penetrating oil?
You might have to resort to a mild application of heat, to loosen the grip of the Lock-Tite...


What year model car is this, anyway? I've never really run into one that I couldn't get the caliper bolts out of fairly easily... Are you trying to take the caliper mount/bracket off, or just the calipers from the mount? Not sure what type set-up your car has.
You will find, once you do get the bolts out, that they have "Lock-Tite" on the threads, and that can make removal pretty tough, at times. Have you sprayed the area with penetrating oil?
You might have to resort to a mild application of heat, to loosen the grip of the Lock-Tite...
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
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Thanks Joel.....I'm just gettin old.
The whole problem lies in the fact that I can't really get in there to get torque on the wrench. I needed the impact wrench to do the grunt for me in the wheel well. I started at the right front and for some reason those bolts were extremely tight. The rest of em were about normal.
All's well.....Got'er dun. Thanks everybody

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