I've got a crack/leak in the power steering return hose. How difficult is it to replace those hoses? Any special tools or tricks to know before proceeding?

Todd, it's no TOO bad. The real problem will be getting the correct, molded hose! You need to make sure the hose is not gonna get caught up in the belts/pullies, or in the steering gear anywhere. It will be a tight fit for your hands around the back of the pump, but, it's really not an impossible job.
If you have to replace any of the pressure hoses, be sure to mark them, and only remove one at a time...ya don't want to cross those up!
Take your time, and it will be an easy job for the return hose.

It helps to have a line wrench rather than just a regular wrench or crescent wrench.  I haven't changed mine, but have had the PS pump off several times for leaks.  The low pressure side is a clamp on the pump and a pressure fitting on the cylinder, while the high pressure side is a pressure fitting on both.

I used thread stuff on mine to make sure I got a good seal since after several removals it was dripping a bit.  I also replaced the big and little o-ring on the high pressure side.

It is messy, use a catch pan and keep your eyes covered (trust me) with protective lenses (man that fluid hurts).

Don't tighten the fittings too tight or you might twist a pipe/fitting.

Dennis

[QUOTE=dnv]It helps to have a line wrench rather than just a regular wrench or crescent wrench.  I haven't changed mine, but have had the PS pump off several times for leaks.  The low pressure side is a clamp on the pump and a pressure fitting on the cylinder, while the high pressure side is a pressure fitting on both.

I used thread stuff on mine to make sure I got a good seal since after several removals it was dripping a bit.  I also replaced the big and little o-ring on the high pressure side.

It is messy, use a catch pan and keep your eyes covered (trust me) with protective lenses (man that fluid hurts).

Don't tighten the fittings too tight or you might twist a pipe/fitting.

Dennis
[/QUOTE]

 Agree totally.... just did mine last month.

 

Thanks guys,

Hey Todd , I am going to be in Morehead in December  staying at the Sheraton In Atlantic Beach two nights. I did a lot of work there a few years back. 

[QUOTE=ctworrell]Thanks guys, [/QUOTE]

In my opinion (and I know what opinions are like), this is best done on a lift, second best on concrete with tall ramps or jackstands where a creeper or dog bone can be rolled under the drivers side from the front.  This will give you a good straight on approach on the back of the pump.  You shouldn't have to remove the pump to change a hose.  The low pressure hose may have a clamp rather than a pressure fitting (mine did) and it is a B!%*# to get pulled loose, especially if it is old and hard.  Be sure to use a camera or camera cell phone and take pix of things for orientation BEFORE you approach the vehicle with any tool other than a drop light.  Look at it until you are comfortable with what you are seeing.  The hoses will come off the back of the pump and route around the tie rods to the PS Cylinder. 

O'Reilly's makes hoses with pressure fittings and the guys out in my neck of the woods are pretty good, although we are in a rural area and the do LOTS of tractor hoses this time of year.  Even the low pressure side has a pressure fitting in the cylinder.

If you are replacing both hoses and you can't find the either hose already pre-made, you will need to CLEARLY MARK the high pressure and low pressure hose locations on the cylinder PRIOR to removal (see remark about PIX).  Make sure your pix are clear and show what you think they do.

Use the line wrenches and apply steady, even pressure and they should break loose. 

Again, I wouldn't take anything loose unless you are changing the pump, then you will need to remove it but it can be removed from the bottom side, especially if on a lift.  One bolt in the forward motor mount removes the back of the brace, then two bolts into the front drivers side face of the block removes the cradle and brace.  You don't have to remove the brace and can leave the bolt in the motor mount however, it is easier to remove it as a unit.  That way you can unmount the braces and remount them on the new pump (per the pix you take). 

Be sure to install the large and small o-rings.  The large one goes on the back side of the large nut that doesn't seem as if it will come out.  It will, but it is tough and it is also spring loaded.  This is very messy and there is nothing like power steering fluid to ruin a good pair of work gloves.  DON'T wash them in your clothes washer if Momma is looking.  Use the blue nitrile (rubber) gloves you can get at any parts store.  You can change if they get too slickery.

Take your time, mark your lines into the cylinder, take lots of pix and you will do fine.

Good Luck