Hi everyone. I've had the Corvette bug for years, and have flitered on and off with getting a C3. I almost have myself takled into it :) I am looking for a 69 - 72 coupe or 69 - 75 convertible. I know that potential problems with these cars are the windshield posts, frame, and radiator support. I'm thinking my budget will be aroud 15K, but I might go up to 20K if I find the right one. I am by no means an expert mechanic. My preference is to get one that is in good shape frame wise. I can always have the body painted later. I also want to drive it some before doing any major mechanincal work, although that doesn't scare me - it will just take me a lot longer than many of the experts here! I guess what I'm reall yasking is for some expert opinions on what these year Corvette's are going for? Any help and guidance are appreciated.

Thanks,

John

what they are going for varies greatly due to the condition and how stock they are.  Be careful of "faked" matching numbers cars and sellers who misrepresent what they have.   When you make a possible choice, take it to a good vette mechanic to be checked out.

I would also recommend that you contact one of the forum members in the area to go with you. It helps to have a second opinion. Also contact your local Corvette club and ask for help.  Most of us here would love to watch someone else spend money for a change. Just kidding. Most of the members here wouldn't mind helping some one get into the hobby. Good luck with your search. Ken is right on about the price. Look up some of the buying guides. That will help get you into the ballpark on what they are going for.

Do your research, and determine exactly what you want, first. NEVER buy the first one you look at. Seems those are the ones the suck us in, and then turn out to be nightmares down the road. I always advise people to buy the best one they can afford. A cheap fixer-upper will cost way more in the end than you'll ever get out of it, money-wise, or pleasure-wise.
Be aware, that a good quality paint job will cost from $3000-$8000, depending on what you want, and what you have to start with.
If you're looking for a "numbers mathing" original, be prepared to pay for one, but verify it first. Take some time and learn what "numbers" actually mean.
If your just looking for a good driving 'Vette, and #s don't matter, then the price should be more reasonable.
Any of the early Sharks(chrome bumpers) are always going to cost more than the later models, but some of the early soft noses are gaining in price, now. A convertible is always higher, also.
Rust in the frame, windshield, and kick panels is common. Put a piece of white paper on the floor of the car and shut the door solidly. If any rust falls out on the paper, you have an indication on condition that might need major attention.
Drive it. Listen for noises-engine/trans/diff. All can be expensive.
All of this just to say again, buy the best one you can afford, and one that makes you happy.

______________

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

and if you find one John, thats really good driving , don't go messing around to find those few extra horses or you could end up with a lot of monkeys as i did.Unless ofcoarse you like it more working on the car than driving..... as i ( pretend) 

Wow, I bought my 1st one last year in your exact price point.  It took me a year to find the "right car". I wanted either a 69 - 73 or an 81 I bought a low miles 81 in my dream colors in #2 condition.  Here my findings

A) EVERY CAR will need work.  Everything you see that you dont like will be fixed (even though you say you wont) then double it and you'll be in the ball park. 

B) In our budget we're not getting a show car but a solid driver could be found.  Ask yourself Do I want numbers?  Do I want mechanicals?  DO I want cosmetics?  You will get 2 out of 3 for 15 to 20 grand. 

C) Be sure you have the capitol to put into the car for the little things and maint that will need to be done as soon as you get it.  Nothing is worse then an unsafe car that can leave you on the side of the road

D) Listen to the forum guys! These guys saved my skin on countless occasions

E) Go with your gut, bring a friend, BRING A MECHANIC. Its a good sanity check

Just an FYI, My friend Glenn has been looking for the exact thing you and I were/are.  Here what we saw.

69 Black/Black coupe at Contes. 350/350 NOM 4sp 2- cond. It was the 1st car we saw, we should have bought it,  BTW, they have a nice 72 NOM steel cities grey coupe w/a 350 th350 priced right see contes.com, they have a good rep. 

73 454 NOM clean 4sp w/horrendous maint - we didnt trust the car or the owner

68 427 NOM but a real 427 car - needed paint, nice car

70 350 4sp clean but the front end was shot

75 Ragtop automatic needed heavy maint and an interior

etc etc

He did buy a GORGEOUS 73 Elkhart Green 454 4sp coupe numbers match that needed just a little paint work, had a fresh interior and service records for 15 years.  He paid 18k.  He alloted 5k additional for needed work, it didnt need any (I've never seen that!) so he's sinking the money into a new killer paint job.  The car will go from a 2- to a 2+ when done. 

Be patient, ASK QUESTIONS.  Use us as a resource or sounding board and welcome aboard!  My 81 is beyond satisfing.  Im loving Vette ownership.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

KeBo38811.3506481481

Pardon my ignorance, but what do the condition numbers (2- or 2+ ect) mean and how are they determined?

Thanks John

A 1 car is about as perfect as you can get.

A 4 car is likey to roll.  Might need pushed.  Basically a very rough car. 

It a rating used by high buck auctions for evaluating the cars.  Go to some of the high buck auction sites and you can find a description of each number.

To give an example of an interior rebuild. I did mine the winter before last and spent about $3K. This included new door panels, dash pads, leather seat covers, foam, carpet and some other stuff. I did all the work myself so no labor expense. Its like having a new vette.

thanks for the advice everyone - keep it coming! I'm not scared to funnel more money in after the purchase. I know it's a money pit. I just need to make sure I get one that I can work on with my skills (i.e. no frame issues). I can pay someone to have it repainted later on.

John, maybe this will help.

#1 Restored to current maximun professional standards of quality in every area or perfect original with components operating and appearing as new. A 95-plus point show car that is not driven.

#2 Well restored, or a combination of superior restoration and excellent original. Also, an extremely well maintained original showing very minimal wear. 85-plus point car.

#3 Completely operable original or older restoration showing wear. Also, a good amateur restoration, presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus, combinations of well done restoration and good operable components or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to complete. A good driver.

#4 A drivable vehicle needing no or only minor work to be functional. Also, a deteriorated  restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. All components may need restoration to be excellent, but the car is mostly usable, "as is". Good driver.

#5 Restorable. Needs complete restoration of body, chasis and interior. May or may not be running but isn't weathered, wrecked or stripped to the point of being used only for parts.

#6 Parts car. May or may not be running but is weathered, wrecked and/or stripped to the point of being useful primarily for parts and will require extensive/expensive restoration. 

Well, I'm 18, and I have a T-TOp 77..... so far I'm in over 25K.... after I get done with paint... I'm lookin at 30K. And this is a street, and minor strip car. I would highly suggest contacting a local club. Most ppl in my club are hela tight, and won't rip you off.

______________
-LOUIE

This car supposedly looked great. Buyer beware, often the seller has no clue what's hiding in there. Our friends at GM made really sure this area would be prone to rustout when they installed foam blocks at both locations (#2 body mount, behind the kick panels) Picture link:

http://www.corvettevalley.com/gallery/data/500/medium/birdca ge009.jpg

Big Fish38811.8244097222