I use Joe Gibbs conventional, I think 10w-30.  The Joe Gibbs thing is for the appropriate level of zinc/ZDDP for a flat tappet cam, the conventional is because I don't think synthetic is needed or even a good idea for our motors (they weren't designed for it and synthetic may leak past the looser seal tolerances).  It's expensive, but I only change oil in my vette once a year.  

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Clarification on the Joe Gibbs oil I use: it's the hot rod oil, not the racing oil.  Not sure you'd want to use racing oil in our cars, unless you raced it.  

|UPDATED|3/22/2015 9:31:14 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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I've been using bacon fat.  Doesn't work very well but boy, it sure smells good!

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Dave C..........My mantra: I can not be bought!!      Long and short term leases available.

If i decide to add the additive how much is required at every oil change ?

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One bottle.


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Joe Gibbs has become Driven Racing Oil. The HR series oils contain a corrosion inhibitor that helps in cars that aren't used regularly. I had emailed Driven with a few questions and received an email back from Lake Speed Jr., in minutes, with all of my questions answered.

I have been using Brad Penn oil in my 1969 427. I only change the oil once or twice a year and have found good prices if you buy from ebay or the oilwarehouse.

I've decided to go with Joe Gibbs HR 10W40 with the K+N filter.

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I've been running Durablend in my C3 since I've owned it (2007). It's for use in cars over 75,000 miles and made up of a synthetic/petroleum blend. No issues, no leaks.













|UPDATED|4/3/2015 9:21:13 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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Not enough zinc/phosphorus for flat tappet cams.




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