Since you are replacing the ball joints, have you considered replacing the control arm bushings also?  If they are factory original, then they will probably need it.

1973 L-82 4 spd

I agree, at least the lower control are bushings.  The upper A arm is a bitch to get out but the lower is easy.

Yeah, as I was researching this job, I realized it would probably be best to replace the control arm bushings as well. I have seen how difficult the upper control arm is to remove but I hate the idea of doing something halfway. I am lucky enough to have a lift in my shop and all the tools I could possibly need. As I have mentioned before this is my father-n-law's car and he had the lift installed for me to work on all the family cars, tractors, etc. He really wants this car to drive right so parts are not an issue, the only hindrance is the amount of time I can spend in the shop. That being said if anyone has any tips on getting that rascally upper control arm out, I would appreciate it. Next job is probably going to be the rear suspension components.

In my opinion, there are only two ways to remove the upper control arm. Either take the two bolts out of the cross shaft, or move the radiator support forward. Do not remove the bottom two bolts, one on each side. Rotate the support forward, and pull control arm out. 

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I am currently in the "thinking about it" stage of replacing the ball joints on the '78.  

I'm hoping/planning that when and if I do get around to it, that I won't be removing the A-arms.   

However, I'm not entirely sure that the job is within my capabilities, the cutting/grinding of the rivets for the ball joints (from memory, the tops are original) is a bit daunting as I haven't done that sort of thing before!    That of course is not even mentioning the whole business of releasing the joints and supporting the car on the lower arm etc!😱  That all sounds a bit scary, but the thought of removing the spring to replace A-arm bushings (even if only the lower) even more so!

If an when Dad Dude tackles the job I'll be interested to hear how he gets on - and I'll be suitably envious of his lift and unlimited tool selection!

It's really not that difficult. I have done MANY on the floor. No lift, only jacks. Just do your homework, and go slow. Get the front up off the floor far enough to allow the spring to relax. AND, if the spring is out, replace it. Never be a better time. A angle grinder will do wonders for the rivet heads. The job is a snowball effect. One thing leads to another. While I'm here, I'll do this. Be ready, and do your homework. You can do it! 

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Springs are new, steering is new, inner and outer tie rods are new, tie rod adjusting sleeves are new. The only thing left to do is the control arm bushings and the ball joints. Then probably on to the rear end. I will likely drill the rivets. I had a run in with an angle grinder in my younger days that cost me a day of work and several stitches...lol. I will let everyone know how it turns out.

I've done the PSCV and ram, plus hoses, and the tie rods are new throughout, ball joints are due I suppose.  From what I can see I may be lucky with the A-Arms......

I've done rear end - new trailing arms, U'Js etc and had the diff re-built.  Plus about 20 years ago fitted a composite spring.  

Time to start reading I guess!😀

Come on in, the water is fine. It is just full of Sharks...lol. I have not even started to research the rear end, sounds like loads of fun.

Ha!    I just want to be sure I don't wish I'd got a bigger boat!😄

Actually, from what I have read so far, and based on my efforts, the rear end looks a lot easier!  😄 

The best change I’ve made to my C3 is to remove all original steering and front suspension and replace it with a Sharkbite kit. This includes power rack and pinion, and coilover shocks. Drives and handles so much better.