If I can't get the broken off caliper bolt out of the rear bracket , I will have to replace bracket - inorder to do so I'll have to remove rear spindle - Can this be an easy affair or is it difficult and requiring special tools
Any advice on either removal of broken bolt or removal of spindle/replacment of bracket would be appreciated
Thanks
Al

Al,
Spindle removal is not that easy. You should use a special removal tool, to ensure that your spindle is not damaged. In a perfect world you could take it out and put it back, but with these you would need to also have an installation tool and new bearings.

I would find out how to get the bolt out instead.
Glenn

The bolt can be drilled out. Drill out the center, and soak it with penatrant. Then use an easy out. This drives into the bolt shaft and bites in while turning a reverse direction to remove the bolt.

If that does not work. Drill the hole out and completely remove the bolt. Then insert a Heli-coil thread repair. The drill size will be dependent on the Heli-coil.

First, you drill the hole, the run a tap in through the hole cutting new threads. These threads are larger than the ones you want. Then a coil of threads, the Heli-coil, is threaded into the hole with a special tool. An insertation tab is removed from the threaded coil. Now you have brand new threads in the same size as the original. In fact, the threads are stronger than the original. It's an excellent repair and not all that hard to accomplish.

The Heli-coil kit comes with the required tap, install tool, and Heli-coil threads. Sometimes they have the drill as well. If not, check the package and get the correct size drill.

|UPDATED|9/29/2004 1:13:10 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Thanks Ken etal
I thgought of the Helix Coil but needed confirm from the experts - Easy-out wont work - I already snapped on off trying -got it out now onto coil
Thanks
Al

hope this helps, I agree with Ken, but don't suggest a helicoil. The main reason, they are stainless steel and prone to fail. I sell all sorts of fasteners, nuts, bolts, socket-head oroducts and the like. We sell a product called a keensert that is way stronger than stainless. It's an alloy comparable to grade 8 tensile stregth, while a heli-coil being stainless is comparable to a grade 2, in otherwords-junk. If you only need one I could mail it to you so you'd have real peace of mind with the repair. Let me know- Phil- go George W.

No offense, but Heli Coil has been around a long time. I've used them for several repairs with good results. How do you determine it's a grade 2 equivalent? I'm sure a lot of us would like to know.

Have you tried heating it with even something as mundane as a propane torch with mapp gas (hotter than propane)

i find if you cant get it out with an easy out.. use a bigger hole.. (with larger extractor)

you can reach the point where there is hardly any bolt left..

but apply some heat.. and try the extractor.

as for heli coil vs grade 8.. yes stainless is much weaker than grade 8 and even grade 5. I dont think it would make a difference in this application..

in radio tower construction we always use grade 5 or better as stainless shears too easily..

and unless your going to use a grade 8 bolt with it.. I dont think the harder insert will help.

The bolts that hold the caliper on are factory grade 8, so just like selecting the right nut, grade 8, you want the thread repair to be of considerable tensile strengh. Also, you will want to use anti-seize when reassembling, just in case it has to come apart for brake pads-Phil

|UPDATED|9/30/2004 8:55:57 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

flandy said: The bolts that hold the caliper on are factory grade 8, so just like selecting the right nut, grade 8, you want the thread repair to be of considerable tensile strengh. Also, you will want to use anti-seize when reassembling, just in case it has to come apart for brake pads-Phil

I had never noticed what grade those are.. but Ill take your word for it. Ill have to give that product a try..

thanks

Keenserts are stronger. But in all fairness, I have even used Heli-coil in blocks for cylinder head bolts. I have never had a Heli-coil failure in any application.

The keenserts have the advantage. Agreeded. When the hole is too messed up for a Heli-coil, the keenserts will work. They require a larger hole drilled and tapped, so they can fix a lot of woes. But that advantage is sometimes the drawback. You may not have the room for a keensert due to the space surrounding the hole. While this is uncommon, it's something to keep in mind.