I've read back postings regarding sway bars and did not find help for my problem. Here's a little background.

Restoration of my 1979 Coupe included a complete suspension rebuild - "Grand Touring Suspension System w/Steel Spring" from Van Steel. Front end rebuild went together without a hitch. The rear though is a different story. The kit advertised a 9-leaf spring but I counted only 7 leafs so the mounting bolts were too long (probably for a 9-leaf spring?). Shorter bolts were found and spring, struts and shocks were installed.
Now, the sway bar installation. I found the welded-nut pre-drilled holes and installed the bushing, bracket and sway bar, then the pressed-nut and adaptor plates to the end of the trailing arm.
THE PROBLEM: The included 6" link bolts and 1 1/2" spacer are too short to make the connection between the sway bar end and adaptor plate (even with the car on the ground). Is the 7-leaf spring a contributing factor?
With the car on the ground and sway bar end set parallel to the ground, the link bolt would have to be 8 1/2" long and the 1 1/2" spacer replaced with a 4" spacer.
THE QUESTION: If included 6" link bolt will not connect the sway bar and adaptor plate, would replacing the original link bolt and spacer with a longer bolt and spacer be advisable?

gohokies said: The rear though is a different story. The kit advertised a 9-leaf spring but I counted only 7 leafs so the mounting bolts were too long (probably for a 9-leaf spring?). Shorter bolts were found and spring, struts and shocks were installed. Now, the sway bar installation. I found the welded-nut pre-drilled holes and installed the bushing, bracket and sway bar, then the pressed-nut and adaptor plates to the end of the trailing arm. THE PROBLEM: The included 6" link bolts and 1 1/2" spacer are too short to make the connection between the sway bar end and adaptor plate (even with the car on the ground). Is the 7-leaf spring a contributing factor? With the car on the ground and sway bar end set parallel to the ground, the link bolt would have to be 8 1/2" long and the 1 1/2" spacer replaced with a 4" spacer. THE QUESTION: If included 6" link bolt will not connect the sway bar and adaptor plate, would replacing the original link bolt and spacer with a longer bolt and spacer be advisable?

okay.. as for sway bar connecting to the spring bolts..

im a little lost..

the sway bar connects to a set of end links which are connected to the trailing arm by brackets on top of the trailing arm over the spring bolts ...

item Q in the bottom diagram

http://www.docrebuild.com/dr-r-web/SUSP63E.PDF

|UPDATED|11/22/2004 12:41:23 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Thanks for the response and forgive me for the confusion.

I'm not trying to connect the sway bar to the (end of) spring bolt. As you correctly state "the sway bar connects to a set of end links which are connected to the trailing arm by brackets on top of the trailing arm over the spring bolts ...".

The problem (as I see it)is one of distance, not where to make the connection. I agree with you, the brackets for connecting the sway bar to the trailing arm are mounted above the end-of-spring bolt (spring bolt comes into the trailing arm from the bottom). However, the link bolts (to make the connection between sway bar and trailing arm) I received with the kit are only 6" long. But, the distance between the trailing arm brackets and the end of the sway bar (assuming the sway bar should maintain a level-with-the-ground attitude) is some 8 1/2".

I mentioned the 7-leaf spring vs 9-leaf spring issue as a possible explanation for why the distance is too great for the connecting link bolts. For example, would the two springs (7-leaf and 9-leaf) result in different ride hights, thus change the distance from trailing arm end to sway bar end? That is the real question!

The 7 leaf is an F-41 set up. It shouldn't affect ride height, it's just a stiffer spring. You can adjust ride height by using a longer bolt at the T arm. Longer bolts will lower the rear.

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gohokies said: The problem (as I see it)is one of distance, not where to make the connection. I agree with you, the brackets for connecting the sway bar to the trailing arm are mounted above the end-of-spring bolt (spring bolt comes into the trailing arm from the bottom). However, the link bolts (to make the connection between sway bar and trailing arm) I received with the kit are only 6" long. But, the distance between the trailing arm brackets and the end of the sway bar (assuming the sway bar should maintain a level-with-the-ground attitude) is some 8 1/2".

yeah thats where im getting lost.. I dont have any six inch bolts in my sway bar setup.. look at that diagram and tell me which part "letter" you are referring to.

I looked at my setup.. there is short a bolt that goes through the top of the end link and through the bar, one that goes through the bottom and bracket and two that hold bracket on.. none of them are longer than an inch and a quarter.

no 6 inch bolt.

I purchased the video from van steel on the C3 suspensions ($20.00) & would advise it for the home rebuilder. It shows the front & rear suspension in very detailed video. I was able to replace the entire rear suspension on my 68 with very little problems...it's a great video. Van Steel would probably be glad to answer your questions.
Good luck,
Alan

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The diagram that came with the kit is not "lettered" but here goes.

The adaptor plate is attached to the end of the trailing arm via two short bolts that feed through the trailing arm pre-drilled holes and is secured by a plate with pressed in nuts placed inside the trailing arm above the top of the spring bolt (suspension link). Not a problem.

Now, the distance from the adaptor plate to the sway bar end is greater than the end link (bolt which is 6" long). The end link is a grade 5 tempered bolt which holds two sets of bushings, retainers and a 1 1/2" spacer. There is no way to connect the sway bar to the adaptor plate. The end link is just too short.

I hope this helps.

Alan,

Thanks, you are absolutely right, I need to talk with the folks at Van Steel.

Albert

gohokies said: The diagram that came with the kit is not "lettered" but here goes.

I meant use the diagram in my first post..

it is a pdf page and at the bottom there is a diagram of a sway bar setup

You're using an aftermarket sway bar with links similar to front stabilizer links and not the factory style links. Just a guess, but is there a slight bend in the bar on each side of the frame bracket. Could it be in upside down? Bend going up instead of down? And for the length, does it use the same frame holes as the factory gymkhana bar? Maybe it needs to be moved forward? Just guessing.
Mike

A great big thanks to everyone that posted responses to my "rear sway bar" problem. Just wanted all to know I found the answer. I called Van Steel and talked with one of their installers.

Yes, there was a distance between sway bar end and adaptor plate greater than the link bolt.

THE REASON: the car had been on jack stands while I cleaned the pre-drilled welded nut frame holes and installed the trailing arm adaptor brackets, then when I lowered the car back to the ground, the rear wheels maintained a some-what toed-in attitude. Onced I rolled the car forward, the rear end settled down, took up the space, and the link installation was a snap.

Why is it the easy solutions just simply escape me?

Thanks again,

Albert